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Old 14 July 2009, 18:42   #1
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New engine starting

Well....taking the boat out for its first trip tomorrow. Brand new Mercury 6hp engine, clearly can't try starting it in my garage, so first ever startup will be in the water.
Probably with sundry dog walkers/kids etc, plus my wife, watching.
Is it just going to start no problems or is there an art to it (like my dad's chainsaw, I'd challenge anybody to start that little beast unless they knew the drill)
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Old 14 July 2009, 19:29   #2
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clearly can't try starting it in my garage
Take it out of the garage and mount it on the side of your wheely bin which is filled with sufficient clean water to cover the motors water inlets...I've a Suzuki DF5 and ran it in mounted on the wheely bin for a couple of hours This way, you'll learn how to start it without most of the potential onlookers.
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Old 14 July 2009, 20:09   #3
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Either do as Leapy says , or my only advice - dont over choke it ! I have found the 3 or 4 really 'new' engines I have had start pretty easily as long as you dont flood them . Start without much of anything & go from there - if anything in crease the throttle settings & when it fires , pull the choke !
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Old 14 July 2009, 21:51   #4
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Remember to fit the kill cord. If you're not familiar with the small Merc/Mariner/Twatsoo, then the killcord switch just looks like a small button or plug.

I had a very good buy on a 'non runner' newish 4 stroke 4hp Merc a couple of years ago. It had no kill cord. Best £3 I've spent - fixed in seconds.
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Old 14 July 2009, 22:06   #5
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Either do as Leapy says , or my only advice - dont over choke it ! I have found the 3 or 4 really 'new' engines I have had start pretty easily as long as you dont flood them . Start without much of anything & go from there - if anything in crease the throttle settings & when it fires , pull the choke !
Yes my Suzuki 15hp starts first time - needs about 1/2 throttle and chocke - as soon as it's running push choke in and throttle back.
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Old 14 July 2009, 22:43   #6
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if you use a wheelie bin or a dust bin check the water temp in the bin and top up with cold water after a half an hour especially in hot weather it suprizing how even a small outboard can warm up a bin full if left running for a long time ,and dont forget to open the air bleed screw on top of the fuel tank ,theres a few video s on youtube now about how to start brand new outboards for people with no experience ,good luck mart
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Old 15 July 2009, 02:13   #7
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One good thing about warm water - it will be far better than cold for removing salt deposits!!!
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Old 15 July 2009, 05:31   #8
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if you use a wheelie bin or a dust bin check the water temp in the bin and top up with cold water after a half an hour ...
Ran mine (5hp) for two hours in the wheelie bin. The water was barely warm after
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Old 15 July 2009, 07:17   #9
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do something that most people dont bother with, read the owners handbook, if you run it in any container make sure the water stays cold and mind your fingers on any turning parts cos its a hell of a way to stop picking your nose
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Old 15 July 2009, 07:25   #10
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do something that most people dont bother with, read the owners handbook, if you run it in any container make sure the water stays cold and mind your fingers on any turning parts cos its a hell of a way to stop picking your nose
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Old 15 July 2009, 08:56   #11
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Fred Drift but....

Quote:
Originally Posted by codprawn View Post
One good thing about warm water - it will be far better than cold for removing salt deposits!!!
If you mean salt crystals I have some bad news for you. I stuck the rib in the Thames for a week up near Lechlade, when you could that sort of thing and the boat safety scheme was just a pipe dream in some civil servants in tray.

So after running up and down the Thames, sometimes going a bit quicker than we should have and being admonished by the lock keepers who timed our trips between lockers the boat was brought home for a good service.

Shocked to find that despite the boat spending a week in fresh water and being run everyday for several hours the thermostat was still covered in salt crystals. I can only assume that if saltwater is allowed to evaporate and for crystals to form then it takes a lot more to disolve them than just running an engine up for a couple of minutes which isn't sufficient to disolve them.

However if you wash down and run the engine shortly after coming out of saltwater then the flushing action may be enough to stop salt crystals forming. Our bin gets a squirt of washing up liquid at the same time. Washes the bin nicely too

Alternatively buy a Yamaha and don't worry about it.

Pete
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Old 15 July 2009, 10:40   #12
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make sure kids dont drop anything in the bin like a house brick ,,,we had an engine running in a tank a few weeks back in gear ,an old seagull engine ,,,family of holiday makers walks passed boat yard ,whilst waking past the 9 year old decides it would be a good idea to run back and drop a large pebble in the tank ,,,,,,,,clunk ,clunk ,,bang ,,,new shear spring ,.....with regards to salt deposits forming i think your right PETE7 ,if you let the engine cool down a bit running on tickover before you take it out of the water ,even if you do flush straight after ,the salt build up doesent seem as bad as engines that have been removed that have been switched off hot then flushed ,i suppose it bakes the salt a bit if theres any evaporation .problem with washing up liquid i think a lot has salt in it anyhow . mart
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Old 15 July 2009, 13:23   #13
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Quote:
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If you mean salt crystals I have some bad news for you. I stuck the rib in the Thames for a week up near Lechlade, when you could that sort of thing and the boat safety scheme was just a pipe dream in some civil servants in tray.

Shocked to find that despite the boat spending a week in fresh water and being run everyday for several hours the thermostat was still covered in salt crystals. I can only assume that if saltwater is allowed to evaporate and for crystals to form then it takes a lot more to disolve them than just running an engine up for a couple of minutes which isn't sufficient to disolve them.


Pete
That is why I said warm - it does make a difference. I took the thermostat out of my outboard and it was caked - left it soak in cold water - nothing - hot water it dissolved straight away.

Of course the question is - how warm can the water be?
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Old 15 July 2009, 15:48   #14
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To break down crystallized salt, you might try adding a bit of an acid to the water as well. Vinegar should work fine. Maybe a gallon of white vinegar in the bucket?

Should probably rinse it out afterwards though (run in clean, non-acidified water.)

jky
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Old 15 July 2009, 20:07   #15
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To break down crystallized salt, you might try adding a bit of an acid to the water as well. Vinegar should work fine. Maybe a gallon of white vinegar in the bucket?

Should probably rinse it out afterwards though (run in clean, non-acidified water.)

jky
Just keep it for the chips - yum!!!
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Old 17 July 2009, 08:04   #16
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Engine starting

I took the boat to the canal, launched it, got in, primed the fuel feed from the fuel tank, checked it was in neutral etc, pulled out the choke and then pulled the starter cord. It started first time. Pushed the choke in and put it in gear and we were off!
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Old 17 July 2009, 10:56   #17
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Quote:
I took the boat to the canal, launched it, got in, primed the fuel feed from the fuel tank, checked it was in neutral etc, pulled out the choke and then pulled the starter cord. It started first time. Pushed the choke in and put it in gear and we were off!
Hope you remembered to cast off/remove the mooring line(s).
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Old 17 July 2009, 17:25   #18
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Boat launch

Yes it would be typical of me to forget something like that! However my wife was holding the mooring rope so had I set off I would have been in trouble for forgetting her.
I've bought a couple of large plastic topped tent pegs for temporary mooring.
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