Originally Posted by Alan Priddy
Might have to disagree with this. To my knowledge there isn't an oil made that will still work when it is contaminated with water. It's the specification of the oil that is important not the brand name. In a clutched unit the destruction is caused by the water contaminated oil generating steam inside which lifts the bonding elements Alan P
Bear in mind the original question is about outboards which don't have clutches as such-an outboard dog clutch is a totally different animal and doesn't have pressure plates.
I've done my own 'tests' on this-using a 1973 Mercury 500 with a totally screwed propshaft seal. The seal was so bad it needed topping up with oil after a week of being out of the water as it dripped. Both times the lower unit was filled with fresh oil before using the engine.
After about 2-3 hours running, using car hypoid EP90 the resultant mess was totally white and when rubbed between bare fingers, it didn't even feel like oil. There was no obvious lubrication taking place.
After approximately 3 hours running and a night in the water using Quicksilver Premium gear oil, the resultant mess (and yes, both looked like mayo) wasn't anywhere near as white (no indicator as the QS oil was darker in the first place), but was still slippery when rubbed between bare fingers and was obviously lubricating to a degree.
Never mind what a sales rep says. I've been around long enough to work out that however knowledgable they sound,It's mostly bull**** designed to cover up that they actually know very little about the products they are selling bar what's been given them in their promo packs.
Anyone with half a brain can con a salesman with a limited tech knowledge into selling a product and thinking it's saving the world. (HHO gas anyone?
) and Miller's tech guy certainly isn't going to do them out of sales by saying that 'marine' brands are superior at a specific application. Admitting you don't sell the best product for the job is a pretty quick way to the dole queue.