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Old 11 February 2013, 15:52   #21
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Why use muffs on your engine? - it has a flush port, much easier to use and no need to run the engine when flushing.
Way to go
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Old 11 February 2013, 23:06   #22
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Way to go
It's relative and depends on engine brand, the ones that has flushing port on engine block needs to be flushed with adequate hose water pressure or thermostat will never open, will have a partially flushed engine. Others that has tail flushing port needs to be flushed with engine on.

If you boat constantly and your engine has the screw type flush port in the long run will end damaging engine threads, so muffs will be the way to go.

Happy Boating
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Old 12 February 2013, 03:48   #23
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And whilst I can see that it is better than doing nothing, with a bucket you are rinsing the engine in its own muck, ie the crap you want to get out of it, this must dilute the effect????

Muffs and fresh water has to be the way to go
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Old 12 February 2013, 07:49   #24
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Originally Posted by longjohn View Post
Why use muffs on your engine? - it has a flush port, much easier to use and no need to run the engine when flushing.
x2. If you can flush as soon as you come off the water then thermostats should still be open. Otherwise you may need to run it to get them to open. Generally the flush port should be used with the engine switched off to avoid burning out the impeller. (on the Mercs and Yams I have owned, others maybe different)
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Old 12 February 2013, 11:46   #25
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good point needs to warm up a bit to open the stat, 10 minutes is a lot of fuel though, I'd make it 9 mins!

Etec on tickover= 0.7l/hr
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Old 12 February 2013, 11:48   #26
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Originally Posted by Clamchowder View Post
(unless it's a specially large water butt obv)
I'm sure a large butt expert will be along shortly
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Old 12 February 2013, 14:10   #27
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And whilst I can see that it is better than doing nothing, with a bucket you are rinsing the engine in its own muck, ie the crap you want to get out of it, this must dilute the effect????

Muffs and fresh water has to be the way to go
Possibly, although I'd guess there is no more than a couple of litres absolute maximum (probably far less) in most medium sized outboards. So you are diluting 2 litres in a half a 45galon drum call it 20 galons = 90litres.

At a guess that means you are less likely to get big obstructions in the engine and as long as there is some water flowing past the obstruction it will re-disolve any residues next time you use it...

I'd have thought the ideal was to run it up to heat in the barrel and the muff it briefly while the stat is open.
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Old 12 February 2013, 14:58   #28
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Originally Posted by Locozodiac View Post
It's relative and depends on engine brand, the ones that has flushing port on engine block needs to be flushed with adequate hose water pressure or thermostat will never open, will have a partially flushed engine. Others that has tail flushing port needs to be flushed with engine on.

If you boat constantly and your engine has the screw type flush port in the long run will end damaging engine threads, so muffs will be the way to go.

Happy Boating
Most flushing ports don't require the thermostats to be open. And if they were open they'd close really quick with hose water rushing through. At least on my Yam the engine is not to be run while on the flushing port. Best bet is to read the manual and follow the directions...
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Old 12 February 2013, 16:54   #29
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Not sufficient enough flow from the tap the cool the power head
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Old 12 February 2013, 19:15   #30
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Not sufficient enough flow from the tap the cool the power head
The thermostats don't close completely. There are bypass holes which allow water from the flush port to circulate. But pretty sure that after the drive home the engine is cold...
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