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Old 30 June 2005, 17:51   #11
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Pete 7 told me to cover it in waterproof grease .
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Old 30 June 2005, 17:54   #12
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Careful about taking advice about knobs from Pete7 - he used to be in the Army you know!

Only joking Pete!
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Old 01 July 2005, 02:22   #13
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Louise, you are confusing the Army with the RN
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Old 01 July 2005, 14:19   #14
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Right, the "tighness" problem now appears to be the throttle linkage that link all of the carbs. I've sprayed everything with WD40 and it has eased up and seems to be operational again.

Questions: Is spraying with WD40 enough to sort the problem long term? Do you think a strip down of the carbs is nessessary to fix the problem? Spring pressure seems high on the linkage, do you think that this could be reduced to allow less force to move the throttle lever on the control box?
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Old 02 July 2005, 16:39   #15
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andy

i think you are barking up the wrong tree if the level is stiff its the cable
or as wayne said the box

if you have greased the box its the cables my one were stiff and crap when i got my rib . i had the cables re routed and change to merc ones quick silver
type problem storted apart from it stalled all the time
but fixed that by balancing the carbs and ajusting the idle but i found the linkage very poor with load of play inside the cover can,t see the carb springs makeing the lever stiff

dan
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Old 02 July 2005, 17:56   #16
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stifness

are you sure you havnt got a partial sieze/stiff carb butterfly operating shaft on one of the carbs,cos if cables and box is ok then it could be that
paul
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Old 02 July 2005, 20:40   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul F
are you sure you havnt got a partial sieze/stiff carb butterfly operating shaft on one of the carbs,cos if cables and box is ok then it could be that
paul
Yep, it's definatly in the butterfly operating shaft area. Trouble is I have them working again after spraying with WD40. I don't know which one is the problem and that annoys me! As I like to know exactly what's wrong with things.

The spring pressure is quite high on the operating linkage (one spring/carb...4carbs) do you think I can reduce that a bit?

I guess I'll keep spaying with the WD40 untill the engine is serviced for next season (next year) and then get all the carbs stripped and cleaned.
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Old 03 July 2005, 05:01   #18
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Andy

WD40 is more a solvent than a lubricant.
Long term you would be better off spraying it with a Silcone/PTFE dry lubricant. Rocol do one or get some Holts Pro Lube from the boat bit shop.
Being a dry lube, stuff will not get trapped in it. (Grit, salt crystals, fluff, feathers or lugworms.)

What time did you lot escape last night?
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Old 03 July 2005, 13:15   #19
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Quote:
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Andy

(Grit, salt crystals, fluff, feathers or lugworms.)

What time did you lot escape last night?
Fluff, feathers and lugworms

We left at 01:00hrs in typical "Churchillian" lights out fashion
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Old 04 July 2005, 04:24   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
Fluff, feathers and lugworms
Just thinking of all the stuff you "worm drowners" carry.
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