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Old 03 June 2012, 16:57   #11
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The start in gear protection doesn't cut the ignition circuit, it locks the recoil mechanism, so the motor can't be turned.
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Old 03 June 2012, 17:11   #12
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Well I tried it this afternoon (in the rain) and it is trying to fire, I couldnt get it started but it is sparking. I will give it all a good clean over tomorrow including the coils etc, and try again with some fresh juice.

Thanks for all your help
Make sure you throw a fresh set of plugs in it.
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Old 03 June 2012, 17:34   #13
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in the rain:
Dats itt.

Itts wot wee corl a winstonn mowtor

Itts blakk an itt downt werk wen itts raynin.

Giv itt sum sunshyne an breeve sum spliff smowke innto de ayr boks an itt wil bee orlrite
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Old 04 June 2012, 15:36   #14
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So I cleaned up the coils again today and did a bit more research. It appears that the pushrod goes from the choke to the throttle, the pushrod to the neutral indicator is missing, and the flywheel stop has been cut off.

I managed to fire up the motor, but only with the revs up high and the choke fully open, I couldnt get it to idle for more than 20 seconds or so with the choke shut.

I am guessing the idle jet is dirty, and its time I gave the motor a little TLC so going to drop the motor off for a carb clean and service at Pennine Marine or Bill Highams, whoever can get it done soonest.

At least I now know how it works
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Old 04 June 2012, 17:21   #15
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Taking the carby off and cleaning it and the jets is Avery simple process, if you wanted to do it yourself you would probably find it quite easy.

If your not into working on it yourself or you don't feel confident then best drop it to the mechanic.
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Old 04 June 2012, 17:26   #16
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Cheers, I am tempted to have a go, I am fairly mechanically competent but have never had a carb off before. I will have a look tomorrow
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Old 04 June 2012, 17:56   #17
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I can walk you through it if you like. You'll need a Philips head screw driver, a small flat head screw driver (for your pilot jet) a 6 or 7mm spanner or socket for the main jet and a can of carby cleaner, you can use some petrol to clean but the can of cleaner works best.

Disconnect everything running to the carb, take a pic with your phone before hand so you don't forget where everything goes.

Then take a couple of shots of the carb and I'll walk you through it.
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Old 04 June 2012, 21:24   #18
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Note: Carburettor types vary from different model engines, this is a general guide so you get the idea of the process. Hope it helps.

Once you have removed all of the connecting hoses and rods from the carby locate the 2 bolts that go through the airbox and into the carby, there's one on each side of the air box.



Remove the long bolts, remove the airbox, then remove the carby.



Once the carb is removed locate the 4 philips head screws that hold the fuel bowl to the carby. These screws often get quite burred from silly people using the wrong size philips head screw drivers over the years! Note: If the screws are in bad shape you can use vice grips to get them undone.



Remove the bowl with care not to damage the O-ring gasket, have a rag handy, there's usually fuel in the bowl and it will spill out when you separate the bowl from the carb.

With the bowl now removed undo the 3 screws circled below. The 2 brass ones are plugs that cover your jets, the big one covers your main jet, the smaller one covers your pilot jet.



Remove the silver float pin screw, then remove the float and pin. Be careful, the pin will fall out, don't lose it.

Next step is to remove the pilot jet, you will need a small flat blade screw driver to remove the jet. Make sure it's the right size, the jets are soft and you don't want to damage them.



This is what the pilot jet looks like, in a lot of cases this is the source of the problem. The little holes get clogged effecting the performance of the motor.



You can remove the main jet but I usually leave it in, there's only one hole in it and it cleans up OK with a straight blow through it with the carby cleaner.

Next step carefully remove the diaphragm cover, be careful here and make sure you don't damage the diaphragm. It sits between the cover and the carb body.





Thats the end of the dis-assembly.

Now clean the carb thoroughly with the carby cleaner, spray it in all orifices and over all parts, spray the float, spray the pilot jet, spray the main jet, spray everything until it's squeeky clean!

Spend a little time on the bowl.... This is where residue sits and sometimes bonds to the surface of the bowl. You may need to agitate this area with a small cleaning brush (old tooth brush works well) or rag, spray, agitate, spray, agitate, spray agitate... until squeeky clean.



So... you have thoroughly cleaned all parts and removed any surface residue, blown out the jets and made sure they are all clear with no blockages. Now re-assemble the carby and re-install on the motor.

You may need to adjust the position of your throttle or adjust your idle screw (the screw with the spring circled below).



Happy days!

Cheers.
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Old 05 June 2012, 05:29   #19
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Wow, thats amazing, thank you so much! I will have a go today and post back with the results
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Old 05 June 2012, 05:43   #20
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Wow, thats amazing, thank you so much! I will have a go today and post back with the results
No worries mate, took me a little while to pull it together but a visual always helps WAY MORE than a heap of words. Now that you have visualised it you will get the job done a lot quicker.

Remember when tightening the various screws and the pilot jet - you have to go on 'feel', they need to be snug but not overly tight, over tightening can cause headaches like burring the screw head or snapping the jet off leaving the threaded half STUCK in the carby!

No need to be Tarzan with the carby! Have fun!
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