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Old 18 August 2011, 15:28   #11
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Control seems fine def the cables. Only problem I have now is getting the piece of crap back together, I spent 2 hours just trying to put casing back on. tomorrow is another day! I found this plastic bit and not sure where in the control it belongs?
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Old 19 August 2011, 04:59   #12
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Yeah, it's the casing is usually the bit that fails on old remotes!

My guess for the plastic bit (nothing to scale it against) is it probably is an insulator for the electrical gubbinry against the case, the two holes lining up with a couple of the screws that hold it together? Either that or it;s a bearing slide for the lid. Any witness marks on it?

How was the mechanism inside?
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Old 19 August 2011, 08:21   #13
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Think you were spot on looks like it covers the electrical wire from mechanism, just impossible to get inplace and close lid.
Can I buy a replacement controller? Does it have to be merc? E.g. a reasonable priced one?
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Old 19 August 2011, 08:26   #14
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Thought the cables were at fault, not the remotes?
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Old 19 August 2011, 09:06   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruari 29 View Post
Think you were spot on looks like it covers the electrical wire from mechanism, just impossible to get inplace and close lid.?
I assume you left the main body attatched to the boat?


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Can I buy a replacement controller? Does it have to be merc? E.g. a reasonable priced one?
There are only two real differences in most of these controls - the shape & style of the box & the plug on the electrics! I am driving my Merc from a Yam 703, and for a wee while I borrowed a Tohatsu one while I rebuilt the mechanism in the 703

One option (which is what I did) is to move the electrics to your console. You will need to run 2 wires back to the remotes (5 in your case as you appear to be power trim) to allow the anti start in gear switch to do it's job.

Having said that, if your PT control wiring is a separate loom (it usually was on older engines) that may not be an issue & 2 wires to the ASIG switch would do. Then you can use any old secondhand control, or a random "mech only" lever which are relatively cheap. (Although a "mech only" with a PT switch may be a bit rarer, unless you go aftermarket new.

The other handy thing is that they all use the same square peg to connect lever to the rest of the gubbins, so a "manual" one could also work, just use your lever. Just be aware if you mix & match levers the neutral catch pegs are not a standard size, so you may end up with it not stopping dead centre or alternatively not catching in N at all.

The connectors you would need for the "jumper cable" can be found in any auto factors.

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Originally Posted by Downhilldai View Post
Thought the cables were at fault, not the remotes?
I guess you have found a problem in the remotes? If it is just the cables you could probably get replacements from the place under Iceland(?) in Oban.
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Old 19 August 2011, 14:13   #16
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Quote:
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Thought the cables were at fault, not the remotes?
Yeah it is the cables just cant the whole thing back together, I took off all the casing. Oops,
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Old 19 August 2011, 14:22   #17
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[QUOTE="9D280"]
I assume you left the main body attatched to the boat?

Thanks for the in depth reply, no I took controller off console, it think it was jammed in forward when I took it apart. Waiting for new cables to arrive
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Old 21 August 2011, 13:50   #18
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Problem fixed thanks for your answers. The outcome: both cables were ceased, and part of the mechanism in the controller had popped off. After stripping the controller putting back together its now really smooth.
I found these 3 wires coming from the controller im guessing they are for the taco? Any ideas how I can test?
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Old 21 August 2011, 14:02   #19
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Yes they are your tacho wires. First I would clean the contacts on the tacho (then perhaps some vaselline on them if they are getting damp).

Now connect the Black Wire to GND, the purple wire to IGN and the grey wire to SEND.

You may need to turn the black arrow/dial - but it is probably in the right setting if it was previously working.

If it is not giving any signal with the engine running - then check you are getting 12-15V dc between black and purple. You can also measure the voltage between the GREY and BLACK - if you have a fancy multimeter which measures "frequency" or with an ordinary multimeter put it on V.a.c. (not dc) and measure - it will be probably somewhere between 10 and 20V depending on engine type and rpm at tick over. That will confirm the wiring from the engine is all ok and any fault is with the gauge (or setting).
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Old 21 August 2011, 14:11   #20
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Thanks polwart your a star, here is another laugh for you I also found these 4 wires coming from controller randomly taped up under seat, any ideas?
The elec tilt and trim work fine and engine starts ok?
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