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Old 13 October 2008, 16:30   #11
Locozodiac's Avatar
Country: Other
Town: Lima-Peru
Boat name: Nautile
Make: Sea Rider Boats
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 /30 HP
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,706
Originally Posted by ruddles View Post
I would NEVER now buy a second hand older outboard without a full inspection and at least lower leg and powerhead removal, may sound harsh, but its the way to go. What looks shiney outside often suffers from the mudguard principle, shine on top, full of crappo underneath.

The issue about buying used engines from simply users, guys that only add gasoline/oil and take engine to service when have been left adrift in middle of sea, is that you are probably buying a nice pandora box along with engine. One issue that forgot to mention: when ever a engine is stripped for internal maintenence (powerhear/lower leg removal) is that always brush paint with bearing grease powerhead bottom/middle leg attached to powerhead/water pump housing, this will help prevent premature corrosion, salt formations & crusts on them, will still be able to find grease on your next removal. Use a good grease that is anticorrosion and that repels salt water well.

Periodic 2/3 years use maintenance is a must, compared to ribbers, we sibbers use smaller HP engines, much easier & friendly to strip, economic to repair in order to maintain in top mint conditions. Example of a heavyly 12 years old 15 HP engine periodically stripped for total maintenance/overhaull. (The engine head inside parts are still factory original)

Happy Boating
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Old 14 October 2008, 03:53   #12
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,614

The other thread is this one:
My post was aimed at Loco simply 'coz he's already asked the corrosion question last week.

Basically went to change the thermostat, sheared 3/4 bolts on the housing (with virtually no effort whatsoever), found they had welded in to the point that a week steeping them & heat & all the other usual thread extraction tricks didn't work, so went for the helicoil fix, and basically stripped one thread in the head with nothing more than a helicoil (still on the insertion tool!)

Thanks for the info, I am aware it shares bits with a lot of similar sized yams (I believe sizeable chunks of the leg / clamp are even interchangeable with the 3 cyl autolube machines). I have sourced a shop who specialise in older engines, who tells me he has a couple of them that are only in his "dead shed" due to meeting the bottom at speed. (i.e they died from a terminal gearbox impact). I guess fortunately for me, it was probably cheaper to replace than repair. Work's been getting in the way the last few eves, but will hopefully have the head off by the end of the week & find out just how terminal the corrosion is. I'll make the decision after that.

It's a '78/79 vintage

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