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Old 09 October 2008, 06:45   #1
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Mariner Marathon 15 - anyone got a pdf service spec sheet or short shaft leg / shaft

Ullo all again.
In my free gift of a couple of outboards, I also got a longshaft Mariner Marathon 15, again vintage unknown.
Would appreciate a pdf spec sheet of clearances, overbore spec, crank spec etc. It has a tad of main or small end kernackered clearance lol ...
Looking to find apx cost for crank rebuild (Think crank is ok, bearings NOT, also, POSSIBLY rebore needed)
Leg seems fine in gearbox and waterpump area. Powerhead is mint OUTSIDE will strip and inspect but do expect a crank and bore job.

to make the thing worthwhile it would be necessary to convert to short shaft, I presum I need a middle section leg and shaft. ?

What is the breed of powerhead used in this model ? yam, towy etc ?, also, is there any other leg centre section and shaft that could be used.

Cheers n more beers.

Rudds
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Old 09 October 2008, 09:32   #2
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from what i remember think the powerhead was base on yamaha and may have been the same power head as the 9.9 ,or 10 hp model .but its going back to the 1980s ,
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Old 09 October 2008, 09:54   #3
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hi chappelow

thanks for the reply.
yes, i thought yam, doesnt look tohatsuish ...

rudds
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Old 09 October 2008, 11:32   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruddles View Post
thanks for the reply.
yes, i thought yam, doesnt look tohatsuish ...

rudds
If it's same throttle mechanism (pinon & shaft as your 18 ) is Toh, if it's cable is Yam. If Toh have the tech specs if required. There are some Mariner/Marathon 25 which are Toh's.
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Old 09 October 2008, 15:09   #5
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Hi Locozodiac
Many thanks for the reply.
YES, it is the same pinion drive, so, its tohatsu !, excellent. you are a mine of information.
Any info you have for dissasembly, inspection and measurement would be super. Will send you a PM.
Rudds
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Old 09 October 2008, 15:32   #6
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HI again locozodiac, I am presuming it is pre 1992 as I have the tohatsu clymer manual for 1992 onwards and its a bit different those models. otherwise I have no info on the year
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Old 09 October 2008, 17:55   #7
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This gets worse lol - I found this info but it may just relate to the US models
It is a list of model numbers and year including the Marathon version.

15 2-stroke 1988 - 1993 OA197112 - OD280999
15 2-stroke 1994 - 1998 OD281000 - OG760299
15 2-stroke 1999 - 2004 OG760300 - OT979999
15 2-stroke 2005 OT980000 - OT999999
15 2-stroke 2005 1B000001 - up
15 Marathon 2-stroke 1994 - 1996 OG044365 - OG437999
15 Marathon 2-stroke 1997 - 1998 OG438000 - OG760299
15 Marathon 2-stroke 1999 - 2004 OG760300 - OT979999
15 Marathon 2-stroke 2005 OT980000 - OT999999
15 Marathon 2-stroke 2005 1B000001 - up
Super 15 2-stroke 1988 - 1994 OB238464 - OG044026
Super 15 2-stroke 1994 - 1998 OG044027 - OG760299
Super 15 2-stroke 1999 - 2004 OG760300 - OT979999
15 4-stroke 1998 OG590000 - OG760299
15 4-stroke 1999 - 2005 OG760300 - 1B226999
15 4-stroke 2006 1B227000 - up


My info (just looked) is 684C L 355763 still baffled, does thay mean its a 94 to 96 ?
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Old 09 October 2008, 18:04   #8
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Looking at the work to be done, it'd be cheaper to find a 2nd hand powerhead. You might even get another identical engine for the cost of the rebuild then have a load of useful parts.
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Old 09 October 2008, 18:45   #9
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Hiya Nos
you are of course correct, but I like a challenge, its a hobby really as I dont work, just a professional cruising yacht layabout lol
I make all my own gaskets, apart from specialist ones - head etc. most bearings are available for a fifth of the price from bearing factors, same as seals. what I CANT do is the rebore if needed, no boring bar these days. , also, the crank is obviously a specialist job - I am hoping, not vey convincingly lol, thats its a small end problem, not a big end, have not run it, just going off the slop in the flywheel. In the past I have shortened legs by cutting and welding, and shafts by cutting and spin friction welding, but if I can get the cosha thing, great. It is nice to know that the engine you use has had a thorough overhaul and inspection, I have a 20 odd year old Yam 2b that was given to me after being sent swimming.. mains rusted up and seals shot, by not buying the horrendously expensive gaskets, and using only genuine bearings for the crank as they are fitted with a lock tab, I rebuilt it to as new for around 50 pounds.it is painted anti theft orange with sunflower syickers on, and has all corrosion rectified. I KNOW it is like new inside, and ultra reliable. I would have payed around 100 euros for the gaskets alone, but by making them, they cost around 20 cents. I use commercial gasket material in various thickness and the copper ball pein hammer technique, lay the gasket on the part, use verrrry gentle taps all the way around the edges and holes, hardly any need for cutting at all. Made a perfect base gasket for the old tohatsu 5 air cooled today in around 5 minutes from graphite impregnated .75mm commercial gasket material. as good as a brand new one.

Maybe I am just a massochist , but I wont know the validity of this crazy plan until I rip it apart, forecast here is Portugal is for a hot weekend, so will have a barrel of bits by monday to inspect.
Perhaps, by tuesday, I will have filled the marinan skip with mariner marathin parts...... roflmao !
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Old 09 October 2008, 19:24   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruddles View Post
Hiya Nos
you are of course correct, but I like a challenge, its a hobby really as I dont work, just a professional cruising yacht layabout lol
I make all my own gaskets, apart from specialist ones - head etc. most bearings are available for a fifth of the price from bearing factors, same as seals. what I CANT do is the rebore if needed, no boring bar these days. , also, the crank is obviously a specialist job - I am hoping, not vey convincingly lol, thats its a small end problem, not a big end, have not run it, just going off the slop in the flywheel. In the past I have shortened legs by cutting and welding, and shafts by cutting and spin friction welding, but if I can get the cosha thing, great. It is nice to know that the engine you use has had a thorough overhaul and inspection, I have a 20 odd year old Yam 2b that was given to me after being sent swimming.. mains rusted up and seals shot, by not buying the horrendously expensive gaskets, and using only genuine bearings for the crank as they are fitted with a lock tab, I rebuilt it to as new for around 50 pounds.it is painted anti theft orange with sunflower syickers on, and has all corrosion rectified. I KNOW it is like new inside, and ultra reliable. I would have payed around 100 euros for the gaskets alone, but by making them, they cost around 20 cents. I use commercial gasket material in various thickness and the copper ball pein hammer technique, lay the gasket on the part, use verrrry gentle taps all the way around the edges and holes, hardly any need for cutting at all. Made a perfect base gasket for the old tohatsu 5 air cooled today in around 5 minutes from graphite impregnated .75mm commercial gasket material. as good as a brand new one.

Maybe I am just a massochist , but I wont know the validity of this crazy plan until I rip it apart, forecast here is Portugal is for a hot weekend, so will have a barrel of bits by monday to inspect.
Perhaps, by tuesday, I will have filled the marinan skip with mariner marathin parts...... roflmao !
Fair comment!
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