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Old 28 January 2014, 21:26   #1
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Mariner 75hp Carb help

Hi all

I have a 1995 mariner 3cyl 2 stroke 75hp.

Having just refurbed the starter motor, I have discovered a fuel problem, so I took of the carbs to discover the bottom two carbs in a sorry state, the two float valves are stuck solid, and I managed to snap the brass cylinder which surrounds the needle jet.

Firstly what magic solution does anyone have for freeing the float valves?

Is the needle jet replaceable?

Other than flea bay where I am I likely to get a used but sound carb from?

Cheers in advance

Lee
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Old 28 January 2014, 22:49   #2
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Bill higham might have a replacment
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Old 29 January 2014, 07:44   #3
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if you can buy a set of 90hp carbs, you can change your 75hp to a 90hp. All other bits leg ,the basic p/h , g/housing etc are the same, you would of course have to reprop the obm, and you would want carbs from the same year ie the 1990s.Its up to you wether you told your insurance company.
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Old 29 January 2014, 10:41   #4
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The part numbers for the carbs are wme 3301 824924 c, I have seen identical looking carbs on ebay but with different part numbers, would they work?
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Old 29 January 2014, 11:10   #5
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I always under stood there was a machining mod required to the exhaust port to fully do a 75-90 upgrade. Have I been missled?

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Old 29 January 2014, 12:14   #6
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Quote:
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I always under stood there was a machining mod required to the exhaust port to fully do a 75-90 upgrade. Have I been missled?

Phil M
I think the reed valves are different too!
I would guess brand new carbs would be £800 too £1000 at a guess!!

However last time I tried, you can buy all the parts of the carbs separate from a merc/mariner dealer.
Or from the states for a significant price saving and quicker delivery time!!!

It's a case of identifying them properly though
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Old 29 January 2014, 12:56   #7
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I have checked many times, and the only differance with a 75hp and a 90hp in the 1990s series is the carbureters, the throut size is differant on a 90hp thats all, no maching reed valves are the same,If you look onto a parts catalogue you will see its the same p/n for a p/h, g/housing
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Old 29 January 2014, 12:58   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle al View Post
I have checked many times, and the only differance with a 75hp and a 90hp in the 1990s series is the carbureters, the throut size is differant on a 90hp thats all, no maching reed valves are the same,If you look onto a parts catalogue you will see its the same p/n for a p/h, g/housing
Great!
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Old 29 January 2014, 13:05   #9
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Scousedeli, that number is only the cast number, they might even fit but it would only be good luck if they were the correct ones, the number you should work to is either etched or stamped on the carb body just above the join where the float bowl fits, sometimes they can be a sod to see, there will be a quite a large number followed by a single number which will tell you wether its a top, bottom or middle carb.But I used to cheat I went by p/ns because I had an EPC when I was working, before I retired.

You can buy repair kits for these carbs, but I wouldnt recommend taking the throttleand choke shafts out , if you go down the repair route.Iam sorry I cant remeber what parts you get in the kit.
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Old 29 January 2014, 13:19   #10
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75hp carbs

I have 2 full sets of 75hp carbs from 2004 Mercury 2 strokes in the garage waiting to sell after having mine upgraded to 90s by one of our illustrious members.

I don't know if they moved on much over the years but if you want to stick with 75 and they are any good to you pm me I can get more details together when I'm at home.

They were fully cleaned and serviced just before removal.
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Old 29 January 2014, 15:24   #11
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Just noticed where you are, too. I'm just North of Stafford so not a million miles away.

If you wanted to pop down and try your set against mine (ooh err), you're welcome.
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Old 29 January 2014, 20:25   #12
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Cheers Simon, I have spoken to Bill Highams, they have some in but will only sell the whole set,

Uncle al, not really interested in a 90hp upgrade.

Oracle, I have PM'd you.

Lee
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Old 30 January 2014, 08:06   #13
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I just thought I would tell you in case a set of 90hp carbs were easier to get hold of.When you get your carbs sorted out and set them up, set the idle air mixture screw to one and a half turns out from lightly seated, the manual will say differant but I found over the years that was the best setting.
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Old 30 January 2014, 17:11   #14
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I may sound stupid here, but what does LIGHTLY SEATED mean?

Cheers

Lee
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Old 30 January 2014, 17:59   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scousedeli View Post
I may sound stupid here, but what does LIGHTLY SEATED mean?

Cheers

Lee
In means not tightened to death, just nipped.
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Old 31 January 2014, 07:27   #16
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lightly seated means screw it in until you feel it just touching, if you just screw it in hard you damage the seating making it hdifficult to set the carb/s properly.
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Old 02 February 2014, 19:59   #17
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Speaking of carbs, not sure if this will fit, but I assume so.

http://www.rib.net/forum/f10/garage-...out-60392.html
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Old 03 February 2014, 20:50   #18
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Cheers spartacus

I'm currently in contact with Steve re the carbs you have highlighted.

Lee
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Old 04 February 2014, 19:01   #19
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Hi

you could always post them an outboard dealer to have a look at them for you to see if they can do anything. Not saying us as we get a fair few in but we would have a look if you are stuck.

Dave
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Old 04 February 2014, 21:21   #20
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Does anyone know if the carbs of a 2005 75hp merc carb numbers wme 103 would work on a 1995 75hp mariner with carb number wme 46?

Cheers

Lee
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