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Old 04 February 2014, 17:23   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clydeoutboards View Post
Hi

you could always post them an outboard dealer to have a look at them for you to see if they can do anything. Not saying us as we get a fair few in but we would have a look if you are stuck.

Dave
Cheers Dave,

The float valves are solid not budging, the shield around the main jet on one of them snapped as it was stuck solid in the float bowl during disassembly, I don't think the main jet is replaceable, I maybe wrong.
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Old 05 February 2014, 07:07   #22
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I have a set of 3 carbs for you. 70 inc vat inc delivery to Liverpool.
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Old 06 February 2014, 17:13   #23
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I have PM'd you Davie, Cheers
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Old 09 February 2014, 10:17   #24
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no pm here!
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Old 16 February 2014, 13:02   #25
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Any idea if the wme 103 will work instead of wme 46s, I could do with getting this up and running for the season.

Cheers

Lee
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Old 16 February 2014, 14:30   #26
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probably not as i discovered to my cost that the last of these engines were a larger capacity - with a 3.5inch bore instead of 3.375, and 8mm(ish) longer stroke. i had to buy a set of later carbs, and so i too have an old set of earlier carbs sat in my workshop. i also have various size jets if you need to do some playing around.
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Old 24 February 2014, 14:22   #27
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Hi Davie

Your mail box is full so my PM won't get thru.

Cheers

Lee
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Old 10 April 2014, 07:43   #28
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Hi all

Thanks for the help, the 103 carbs are working ok. The main starting issue was a knackered battery cable as well as gummed up carbs.

Does anyone know how to adjust the idle jet up properly?

Cheers

Lee
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Old 10 April 2014, 10:41   #29
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Boatinfo - The library, containing manuals, brochures and other technical documents from the last hundred years!
click Mariner manuals, find your year and range, possibly this one?
Boatinfo - Mercury Service Manual for 70-75-80-90-100-115 hp

After service or replacement of carburetor, turn low
speed mixture screw adjustment in (CLOCKWISE)
until it seats LIGHTLY – then back off (each
carburetor) the number of turns per model as
indicated, following:
70 H.P. --- 1-1/4
75 H.P. --- 1-1/2
80 H.P. --- 1-1/2
90 H.P. --- 1-1/2
100 H.P. --- 1-3/4
115 H.P. --- 1-1/2
[some posts go 1/4 turn richer for startup]
This adjustment will permit engine startup.
LOW SPEED MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Only the top two carburetors on four cylinder
models have adjustable idle mixture screws.
1. Start engine and allow to warm-up (run for several
minutes). Throttle back engine to idle for about
one minute to allow RPMs to stabilize.
2. With engine running at idle speed -- in water -- IN
FORWARD GEAR (prop on) -- turn low speed
mixture screw IN (clockwise) until engine starts to
“bog” down and misfire. Back out 1/4 turn or more.

3. Check for too lean mixture on acceleration.

[interpret as hesitation or bogging down on acceleration, and also a slow reduction in revs back to idle from WOT to neutral]
4. DO NOT adjust leaner than necessary to attain
reasonably smooth idling. When in doubt, stay on
the slightly rich side of the adjustment.
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Old 11 April 2014, 03:37   #30
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The service manuals you should go by the serial number of your obm,
Set all three carbs at one and a half out from lightly seated,I found that was a better setting than the service manual,
when you have set everything up the rev range differance should be approx two hundred rpm, from fwd to nutreal,
as Steve_Ribnet says do notnot set the carbs to lean ,thats why I set the carbs at one and a half out ,
also when you are setting your carbs have the obm staight up and down,if its tucked under it is running in an over rich condition,
I have found after the dozens I have set up that the information I have written on this subject is the optimum settings for good performance,
dont forget the ign timming has to be correct and the oil pump set in the correct position thats the notch on the oil pump aperating arm as well.
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