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Old 26 August 2013, 10:55   #11
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I had the old to hand and it has 143 stamped on it. I have tested it in a bowl of cold water and added hot until it opened, using a multimeter with thermocouple and it just started to crack open at 62 deg C, which is pretty much 143 deg F. I am now happy that the thermostat opening is not the problem but will pull out the new later and do the same test and check the numbers on it. I think the key now is to figure out how to get the temp sender out and see what that activates at.

One other thing i did notice yesterday was that, whilst the temp alarm was on, the engine block around it, poppet/thermostat cover etc. were all pretty cool to the touch.

Phil M
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Old 27 August 2013, 03:43   #12
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the over heat sender you gently prise the rubber bung out, then pull out the temp sender,has it got paint flecks salt doposits on it, if it has that could be the problem.Make sure the sender and the hole it slids into are clean I used to put them back with silicon grease. I should have mentioned that some thermostates the temprature numbers are in farenheight not centigrade.
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Old 27 August 2013, 04:26   #13
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And if all that doesnlt work, get a bulb / buzzer & disconnect each sensor one at a time & see if you can get the Independent buzzer / lamp to squeak / light.

Then at least you'll know what it thinks the problem is.
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Old 27 August 2013, 05:35   #14
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Mine also does this although the engine is running normaly.

I spent hours tracing it down to the ignition switch and remote.

the symptons were it would beep as it should when you turn the key
start and run normaly.
but slowly the annoying beep would come on.
and go from a quiet screechy intermittent beep to a full on very loud constant beep.

it was not the senders as could disconnect all of them and it still did it. I even replaced the alarm unit and it still did and does it.

but I can turn the ignition switch back a little and it stops. so flakey ignition switch in may case.
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Old 27 August 2013, 09:37   #15
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Thanks all for the tips. It'll be a few days till I can get a look at it again. I am pretty sure it is the temp alarm and not the ignition as I've tried disconnecting the sender and that shut it up. I'll take a look at the controls and ignition anyway, just to make sure.

Thanks,

Phil M
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Old 16 September 2013, 13:27   #16
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Ok, update time. I've checked the temp switch and it goes to ground at about 110 degrees C, so I'm guessing I have an overheat issue. Any thoughts what could cause this? I wonder if I have a blockage or salt build up in the cooling channels. Is there any easyish way to inspect these without buggering up any alignments or adjustments?

Thanks,

Phil M
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Old 10 December 2013, 07:31   #17
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I finally got round to opening up the engine and inspecting the water channels. They are all pretty clear so I'm satisfied there is no problem with blockages or anything wrong with the water supply. I have, however, found a burnt deposit on the middle piston side wall, the section that is exposed through the exhaust port when the cylinder is at TDC. It doesn't apear to be a blow by problem, as the piston rings are clean in good condition and there is no fouling on the cylinder side or between the rings. I have also checked the compression and it is pretty much 100psi on all cylinders. At a guess I'd say the temperature in the exhause manifold was getting too high and burning the oil film on the middle cylinder, but that could be rubbish. Does anybody have any ideas? Unfortunately I'm quite a way from any outboard repair places and would like to try to diagnose the issue at least before I take the boat anywhere.

Thanks,

Phil M
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Old 10 December 2013, 14:16   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil M View Post
Does anybody have any ideas? Unfortunately I'm quite a way from any outboard repair places and would like to try to diagnose the issue at least before I take the boat anywhere.

Thanks,

Phil M
Hi Phil - is this a two stroke engine? If so I had one - exactly the same problem - it was a faulty sensor on the oil reservoir.

Rgds
J
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