mariner 60 wont fire up

[ed_dash]

Hi,

I used my rib all last week, probably a good 5/6hrs a day, as safety cover for local sailing club. Friday was the end of the event, put boat on trailer went to fresh water run the engines, port fired up fine. Starboard wont start.

I have had no issues all week with them.

Its turning over freely, battery is good, fuel is getting through, i can hear the choke solenoid click when i press it but no Spark. Im thinking it maybe the kill switch, does anyone know what colour the kill switch cable is at the engine end so i can by pass (only for verifcation not to use) ?

Its a 2 stroke Mariner 60hp circa '97

Any other ideas would be great.

I have tried to get inside the control box but 2 of the screws are solid and i dont want to drill them out if its not the switch.

Many thanks

[ed_dash]

okay, dug around on here and found a wiring explanation. Its not the remote or the kill switch. I have used the other engine to test remotes swopped over and tested.

So there is something at the engine end that wont let the engine start, any ideas?

Power is good, engine turns freely, choke solenoid clicks with key is pushed, fuel is ok, plugs are oiled up a bit but thats all, just no spark on any of the cylinders.

thanks

Ed

[TheMadMariner]

So it's no spark...plugs can't be turned bad, just so suddenly.
I would say you're on the right track with disconnecting anything that might interfere the ignition. I would also recommend disconnecting the rectifier (couple of yellow wires usually) You should also check all ground wires for corrosion or cracks/cuts; every ignition component has one, (usually a black wire) and should have a good clean surface to ground with.

So you're Mariner is either a Mercury-build 3 cyl, or a 2 cyl Yammi-build.

Either way...get yourself a decent multimeter, then you can test the stator for resistance. If the resistance runs into overload, that's a good indication the stator is bad.
If you can get your hands on a DVA-adapter, then you can also test for peak-voltage on both the stator and the trigger. You should be able to download or get a manual with each components' specific value's, as well as a more detailed way of how to approach this.
Testing the CD-box/ powerpack has always remains a mystery to me.....General rule I think is; when everything else is working fine, then the powerpack is the blame.

If both engines are identical, you can try to swap parts to test.

Hope I've told you something useful here. To anyone; feel free to correct me.

Greats,
Chris

[uncle al]

the kill circuit is black/yellow tracer you will require the figures but do an electric test on your stator especially if it is a black one ,make sure all your earths are good, try starting without using the choke, is the kill cord in properly remove and refit,good luck
alan

[Polwart]

Originally Posted by uncle al

the kill circuit is black/yellow tracer you will require the figures but do an electric test on your stator especially if it is a black one ,make sure all your earths are good, try starting without using the choke, is the kill cord in properly remove and refit,good luck
alan

Alan - I think he is saying he swapped the port and starboard engine connections over and still had the same issue so the issue is not at the kill switch end. It could presumably be a short further back in the loom/engine though - so it would be worth checking that that wire is not connected to ground.

[uncle al]

disconnect the black/yellow tracer is the first I.A. the black stators on them obms are inclind to work, be shut down and then either the slow speed bobbins or the high speed bobbins not working,but if he has a bad earth it may look ok but you have to remove check the connection is tight on the electric cable make sure the mating sufaces are clean and bright then refit the earth cable,has he tried swopping control box wiring looms un-plug at the socket?those onms are pretty reliable theres a lot out there