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Old 22 July 2011, 16:39   #11
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Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
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Thanks - will be putting boat on the Thames, so worst case is about 5 yards to a bank!
will have a look at it - anyone who has other ideas, do chip in - but will take it to a mechanic - will try and persuade my car mechanic to have a look (don't think he likes boat engines - but an engine is an engine! so will try and persuade him...)

so many thanks for all the help

Alasdair
Don't use a car mechanic-he won't have a clue and is more likely to do more harm than good.
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Old 23 July 2011, 10:47   #12
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Well... took it out on the Thames this afternoon successfully...
- forgot the bung, so boat started to fill - pulled out, drained, put bung in, refloated it
- then had to paddle boat out of slipway area as it was too shallow for the engine...
- it started first time (no obvious exhaust fumes)
- discovered that it felt a bit lumpy at slow speed, but fine at higher revs
- seemed to go very smoothly
- turning circle is quite poor (though only tried to port...)
- switched engine off at one point, wouldn't restart with the key - but did pull start...
back in, and back out of the water - 20 minutes on the water & very enjoyable!

spoke to Red Line Outboard Services in Abingdon (nearest servicing to us it seems) and his view was:
- exhaust when running in a bucket will come back up the tilt tubes and exit as shown above - therefore probably normal.
- they are usually lumpy at 700 revs and smoother above 1000 revs.
- could be a fuse / solenoid / etc. stopping it from starting on the key...

so, off for a checkup - but generally pleased - felt very good...

Alasdair
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Old 23 July 2011, 12:56   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akirk
Well... took it out on the Thames this afternoon successfully...
- forgot the bung, so boat started to fill - pulled out, drained, put bung in, refloated it
- then had to paddle boat out of slipway area as it was too shallow for the engine...
- it started first time (no obvious exhaust fumes)
- discovered that it felt a bit lumpy at slow speed, but fine at higher revs
- seemed to go very smoothly
- turning circle is quite poor (though only tried to port...)
- switched engine off at one point, wouldn't restart with the key - but did pull start...
back in, and back out of the water - 20 minutes on the water & very enjoyable!

spoke to Red Line Outboard Services in Abingdon (nearest servicing to us it seems) and his view was:
- exhaust when running in a bucket will come back up the tilt tubes and exit as shown above - therefore probably normal.
- they are usually lumpy at 700 revs and smoother above 1000 revs.
- could be a fuse / solenoid / etc. stopping it from starting on the key...

so, off for a checkup - but generally pleased - felt very good...

Alasdair
Alls good then

The stater issue can always be bypassed. Rather than pulling it over take the hood off and bridge the solenoid to start it (with ignition on so the kill switch is active). There's a brown cable which if you unplug and touch to the other terminal from the positive battery lead it will turn over. If not the solenoid is faulty. If it does it's the ignition (my bet is the kill) side of things. Poor/intermittent connection

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007
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Old 23 July 2011, 13:51   #14
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Mike at redline is a good honest bloke, i have known him a long time.
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Old 23 July 2011, 14:11   #15
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
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Mike at redline is a good honest bloke, i have known him a long time.
Seconded.
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Old 23 July 2011, 14:49   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akirk View Post
- turning circle is quite poor (though only tried to port...)
I assume you were turning at near idle speed. Turning will always be poor with no power applied. If you need to turn in a shorter radius, crank the wheel over, give it a decent burst of power, then come back to idle or neutral. To turn in an even tighter circle, work your arms out first (you'll need it), then alternate forward and reverse power bursts and corresponding full-lock engine turns (the on-water equivalent of a 3 point U-turn in a car.)

Also be aware that at low speeds a boat pivots differently than a car: going forwards, the boat pivots around a point about a third of the way back from the bow. In reverse, it pivots around a point a quarter to a third of the way forward from the transom.

Luck;

jky
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Old 23 July 2011, 15:50   #17
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You can also try moving the return bar in one slot on the engine connection under the front cowl. That will give you more one way but you could lose it the other! Trial and error. You could also make up a plate to extend it to give more play again.

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007
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Old 23 July 2011, 16:37   #18
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wow - such fantastic responses on here - so grateful!
I know Red Line from a few years back when I had a Thames Cruiser with 7hp outboard - they were great then... It is really ridiculous that living by the Thames and in the middle of the Cotswold Water Park the nearest marine engineer is so far away - but great that they are reliable!

Thanks for the tips on turning - I think that it is a matter of getting used to the boat - the problem with the Thames up here is the slow speeds and narrow river - not conducive to easy turns!

so will take boat over tomorrow and see what they say...

Alasdair
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