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Old 05 August 2009, 12:56   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenF View Post
when you adjust the screw rev the engine slightly then WAIT it takes a bit of time to use the fuel alredy there
1 turn is a full 360 but full in (to a pinch tight) then two out is a VERY good place to start from
Thanks for the advise - I'm going to set it up now & give the suggestions so far reeived a whirl !!

Will post my results
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Old 05 August 2009, 15:42   #12
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I thought I'd cracked it

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Originally Posted by oujakov View Post
Idle screw is nothing more than the "fine throttle" at the closed position of the carb's butterfly. You screw the adjustment in - you're opening the throttle, means motor starts to run faster, and vise versa.
There is no "set" position for this idle screw. Play with it until the needed speed of the motor at idle "starts licking" your ear.
I've always cleaned my carbs with gasoline, disel fuel or kerosene.

Try doing something tonight and then post results.
I thought I'd cracked it when it fired first time & then I stopped & adjusted the idle screw on the carb & it was running much slower.

Stopped & adjusted again but wouldn't start - checked the fuel & stopped it up, cleaned & checked the plugs, checked & rechecked everything I knew but it wouldn't fire again!!

Bit deflated now but will try again Friday maybe...Ah well
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Old 05 August 2009, 16:18   #13
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it could be also that the screw your adjusting has worn at the pointed end, an instead of being smooth has a ridge , it is some times caused by overtightening which then makes the fine adjustment all or nothing .
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Old 05 August 2009, 16:49   #14
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I hope this attachment works. Have a read this is how you should do it.
Mixture screw should be screwed in and lightly seated and as a starting point take it out by 1 and a half turns. But you can fiddle it a bit to get them to run right!.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 15hptime.pdf (55.3 KB, 165 views)
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Old 05 August 2009, 17:14   #15
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Originally Posted by Turbodiesel View Post
I hope this attachment works. Have a read this is how you should do it.
Mixture screw should be screwed in and lightly seated and as a starting point take it out by 1 and a half turns. But you can fiddle it a bit to get them to run right!.
Many thanks for the pdf

Timing light eh!!! perhaps I should stop at this point then as I don't have one of those..Sounds as though I need someone like youself on the case.

1 1/2 turns is what my owners manual said & this is what I had when it ran. What I don't get is that it was starting first pull & did again tonight then nothing at all even after going back to the 1 1/2 turns as before.
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Old 06 August 2009, 08:06   #16
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Originally Posted by LanceB View Post
Many thanks for the pdf

Timing light eh!!! perhaps I should stop at this point then as I don't have one of those..Sounds as though I need someone like youself on the case.

1 1/2 turns is what my owners manual said & this is what I had when it ran. What I don't get is that it was starting first pull & did again tonight then nothing at all even after going back to the 1 1/2 turns as before.
You can do ajustments while the motor is running, just keep your thingers off moving parts.

It looks like if you can start it, then timing is not the issue, as there is no load to the engine at idle. If you know factory setting for timing, I'd suggets to set it at that point for now. Timing could become an issue when you'll start runnung the motor on the boat.

Here what I thing is happening.

When you try firing up the engine, do you have the tiller arm throtle piosition on the "start" line or just fully closed (idle)?

It is is not on the start position, then it will not start (e.g. throttle butterfly is almost fully closed) as the air/fuel mixture is way to rich.

At first, your idle scre was way to much in, this was enough for throttle to be open and start the engine. Now, you seem to figure out how to slow down, but it wont start (as I understand).


Do this little test:

place the tiller throttle into the start position (a little bit open)
start the motor (pull coke out if the motor is cold)
idjust idle speed with the screw witht he motor running.

Keep motor running for few minutes. stop it and take the pugs out, as angin was only idling the plugs suppose to be darker colot then normal, dark chokolate, but not black. if they are black you either need to adjust mixture screw for little leaner.
You may also have out of spec spark plugs that may explain hard/impossible starts when warm. I'd put brand new plugs, just to eliminate the possibility that problematic plugs.
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Old 06 August 2009, 16:29   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oujakov View Post
You can do ajustments while the motor is running, just keep your thingers off moving parts.

It looks like if you can start it, then timing is not the issue, as there is no load to the engine at idle. If you know factory setting for timing, I'd suggets to set it at that point for now. Timing could become an issue when you'll start runnung the motor on the boat.

Here what I thing is happening.

When you try firing up the engine, do you have the tiller arm throtle piosition on the "start" line or just fully closed (idle)?

It is is not on the start position, then it will not start (e.g. throttle butterfly is almost fully closed) as the air/fuel mixture is way to rich.

At first, your idle scre was way to much in, this was enough for throttle to be open and start the engine. Now, you seem to figure out how to slow down, but it wont start (as I understand).


Do this little test:

place the tiller throttle into the start position (a little bit open)
start the motor (pull coke out if the motor is cold)
idjust idle speed with the screw witht he motor running.

Keep motor running for few minutes. stop it and take the pugs out, as angin was only idling the plugs suppose to be darker colot then normal, dark chokolate, but not black. if they are black you either need to adjust mixture screw for little leaner.
You may also have out of spec spark plugs that may explain hard/impossible starts when warm. I'd put brand new plugs, just to eliminate the possibility that problematic plugs.
Many thanks for your very comprehensive advise...really appreciate it

I'm certainly going to give this a try, probably wont be till Saturday now but I'll post my results.

Cheers
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Old 10 August 2009, 18:40   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oujakov View Post
You can do ajustments while the motor is running, just keep your thingers off moving parts.

It looks like if you can start it, then timing is not the issue, as there is no load to the engine at idle. If you know factory setting for timing, I'd suggets to set it at that point for now. Timing could become an issue when you'll start runnung the motor on the boat.

Here what I thing is happening.

When you try firing up the engine, do you have the tiller arm throtle piosition on the "start" line or just fully closed (idle)?

It is is not on the start position, then it will not start (e.g. throttle butterfly is almost fully closed) as the air/fuel mixture is way to rich.

At first, your idle scre was way to much in, this was enough for throttle to be open and start the engine. Now, you seem to figure out how to slow down, but it wont start (as I understand).


Do this little test:

place the tiller throttle into the start position (a little bit open)
start the motor (pull coke out if the motor is cold)
idjust idle speed with the screw witht he motor running.

Keep motor running for few minutes. stop it and take the pugs out, as angin was only idling the plugs suppose to be darker colot then normal, dark chokolate, but not black. if they are black you either need to adjust mixture screw for little leaner.
You may also have out of spec spark plugs that may explain hard/impossible starts when warm. I'd put brand new plugs, just to eliminate the possibility that problematic plugs.
Gave it another go on Saturday morning - no joy & thought it was probaby time for me to give it to someone else. Took it to the local marina & they are going to give it the once over..they recon that the carbs get mucked up by the varnish from the fuel flaking off when they are started again after a long period inactivity & this clogs the jets???

Hope they can get it running properly for me now

Thanks for all the helpful advise.
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Old 10 August 2009, 19:07   #19
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Originally Posted by oujakov View Post



You may also have out of spec spark plugs that may explain hard/impossible starts when warm. I'd put brand new plugs, just to eliminate the possibility that problematic plugs.
just had this with a near brand new engine about 15 hours use from new ,would start first pull then after it had been running a few mins it ran rough and onto one cylinder and wouldent restart ,on removing the plugs and they both showed a good strong spark it wasent until a very close examination that the insulater ceramic on the tip was broken and could be slid up and down a fraction on one plug ,looking it at first time/ newish plugs that had a strong spark and were clean you wouldent have guesed that one was was at fault ,,new plug and it ran perfect .
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Old 11 August 2009, 07:16   #20
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they recon that the carbs get mucked up by the varnish from the fuel flaking off when they are started again after a long period inactivity & this clogs the jets???
It used to be correct, where is leaded fuel from 30 years back would leave the residue inside the engine and it's systems.....but modern fuels are much cleaner and of a higher standard..I guess they wanted to say you have a dirty carb.
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