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Old 09 June 2012, 09:14   #11
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we used to send our cyl blocks to F.J.payne they are at enysham in Oxfordshire if that is any help I dont know the phone number and havent got a directory
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Old 09 June 2012, 09:17   #12
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I have just googled fjpayne their phone number is 01865 882299
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Old 11 June 2012, 16:37   #13
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Country: UK - Wales
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Boat name: Space Hopper
Make: RibTec
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Just spoke to engineer, piston 2 is toast with heavy damage to the bore, so a resleeve is required at least or he has got a spare 2nd hand block. Luckily the crank is fine as well as the other two pistons, so I only need new bearings, one piston, and a set of rings. So it could have been worse! But it was an oil starvation problem. Anyone know what the going rate is for a 2nd hand 75hp power head or a resleeve on one cylinder.
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Old 11 June 2012, 17:06   #14
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Sorry to hear your engine woes.. How easy is it to disconnect the autolube system. Ive been told previously to go premix but have never acted on it. I suppose you only find out you have an oiling problem when the engine fails.

Good luck with getting the engine sorted

Buzzin
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Old 12 June 2012, 04:07   #15
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Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
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Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
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I thought I might have been in a similar situation when mine died. I decided on the rebuild route becuase I now have a known quantity as opposed to a secondhand unknown quantity of unknown history for the same cost that may or may not go bang.....

Mallory Pistons as you say - cheap as chips. I assume yours is a standard merc +0.015" +0.030" bores for the standard pistons. I found somewhere that would do a +0.045" for Mercs, at not much more than the standard oversise price.

If your man can't get his cutting device far enough in*, there is a place up here does have one that will reach. Did all three of mine for 200 odd, including skimming the back face to make sure it was all perpendicular. Will need to look the number out, so let me know if you want to go this route & are stuck.


Disconnecting the autolube: Remove the pump, plug the oil inlet holes, then divide by 50 when you fill the tank! It'll smoke a bit more at idle, but that's about the down side of it unless you do a lot of pottering at low speeds.

* a vague attempt to prevent it all going bilge-ward
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Old 12 June 2012, 10:24   #16
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I am gonna pop down there this evening to have a look at the damage and also talk prices on what my best option is. He said hes got 2nd hand items also if i wanted to go down that route, i.e power head, standard pistons etc so I should have a wide range of price options.

I'll post up some pics later for you all to have a nose at!
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Old 12 June 2012, 15:48   #17
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Here is the damaged piston and bores pics

It was quite obvious the rest of the engine was covered in a fine smearing of oil but this piston was dry as a bone, im not sure if oil has been starved to just this piston or if it has run lean on this piston i am not sure, but the top of the piston indicates it was running rich. Let me know what you think!


Notice how a corner of the piston has come away

Its a bit difficult to see but near one of the valves its scored quite deeply, i dont think a standard oversize piston will take enough of the scoring away. Is it possible to get an after market piston which will proivde more of an oversize bore?










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Old 12 June 2012, 16:31   #18
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Its got a fairly nasty score on the bore, at first i thought it was stuffed but i am now convinced a rebore should get rid of it after doing a bit of research. You can actually bore these out fairly big in relation to the standard size pistons.

Found out i can buy
Standard size pistons (Merc Original)
0.015 Oversize (Merc original)
0.030 Oversize (merc original)
0.040 Oversize Aftermarket piston
0.044 Oversize from Wiseco pistons

so i can bore out 1.1mm which i reckon is plenty!!
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Old 12 June 2012, 17:19   #19
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Country: UK - England
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I would certainly go pre mix, did this on mine quite some years ago as the older it became the more uncomfortable I became with the autolube system. What I have found is that the latest 2S oils don't smoke as much as they used to and don't seem to foul the plugs anymore.


Well done on sourcing all the rebuild parts and i lookforward to seeing how it progresses.

Dave
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Old 13 June 2012, 05:25   #20
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No pics! is the autolube one of these ones that injects into the air / fuel flow downstream of the carb, or does it bulk mix with the fuel beforehand?

I'm guessing what your pics show, but is the missing bit of piston on the exhaust side? Another Clamshell issue was the early ones had a precariously close to destruction spark advance - it didn't take much error to be sparking too soon, resulting in more fuel on the inlet side of the piston "dam" than the exhaust when it sparked. Net result when it went bang, because of the asymetry of the explosive mixture the piston was forced sideways into the exhaust port.... My engine stopped because the resulting shards shorted the plug! The "factory" cure was to retard the spark, which then was compensated for with a slightly lighter piston to allow it to spin faster & regain the lost gee gees.



I'll second DaveJ on the oils - much to my amazement I had a remarkably un-smokey engine after crawling up the Forth at canal boat speed for 2 hrs.....
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