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Old 24 April 2016, 13:13   #11
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any chance someone could tell me or sketch me how I could do a inline override switch please
Thanks
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Old 24 April 2016, 14:08   #12
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any chance someone could tell me or sketch me how I could do a inline override switch please
Thanks
If you just have a normal kill switch (outboard style - closes to ground = kills engine) then just putting any switch in series with the kill cord will disable the kill switch. as suggested above something like this http://www.minispares.com/image.axd?...350/MSA345.jpg would be a good idea... To prevent accidental use.
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Old 24 April 2016, 14:16   #13
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I think that's a great idea I might have a go next weekend,
Thank you
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Old 24 April 2016, 20:00   #14
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I'm speculating here, but can you not mount the toggle switch upside down with respect to the housing to achieve that?
If you're ebay hunting then some you can, some have the switch bonded to the housing.
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Old 25 April 2016, 00:57   #15
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Before I start am I right in thinking I only need to split the two wires and add the switch
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Old 25 April 2016, 03:53   #16
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I'm speculating here, but can you not mount the toggle switch upside down with respect to the housing to achieve that?
Just connect the wires to the switch the other way round
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Old 25 April 2016, 04:12   #17
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Just connect the wires to the switch the other way round
RfLmao
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Old 25 April 2016, 05:09   #18
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Slightly different than Wilks but funny how these things crop up when they do.
I had a few problems on our Lundy trip I was useing a "spare" Lanyard and it popped out a few times whilst in the rougher stuff!...like The man said...NOT nice close in on a Lee Shore!
Although the engine started again immediately,it does spoil the moment somewhat.

I remedied it by placing the Cord Upside down in the Clip,so it had no-where to fall.
At home on close inspection I compared the "spare" with the original Suzuki clips,and concluded it was just a not very well made copy,and Binned them!
Food for thought and lesson learned....you can have the best Rig possible and a -sub 1p bit of plastic can potentially cause you real problems.
Kill Cords go Genuine!
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Old 25 April 2016, 05:12   #19
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Am I being stupid here? Prob my ignorance.

If the objective is to enable the engine to start if the kill switch sticks in an open position (meaning you can't start the engine), wiring the firing switch in series will only add another gate - you could kill the engine via this extra switch but the ignition key will do the same.

I would have thought you'd wire the firing switch in parallel and leave it in a open position until failure occurs. Then close it to bypass the kill switch to start the engine...

awaiting missiles
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Old 25 April 2016, 05:26   #20
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Am I being stupid here? Prob my ignorance.

If the objective is to enable the engine to start if the kill switch sticks in an open position (meaning you can't start the engine), wiring the firing switch in series will only add another gate - you could kill the engine via this extra switch but the ignition key will do the same.

I would have thought you'd wire the firing switch in parallel and leave it in a open position until failure occurs. Then close it to bypass the kill switch to start the engine...

awaiting missiles
Chunk most outboard kills switches operate such that when the cord is removed the switch closes, shorting the spark circuit to ground - preventing the engine from firing. In order to disable the kill switch you need to break that circuit.

Now to add confusion to the mix Willk (who just to remind everyone started this thread hoping to find a rare kill cord at a celticly-acceptable price!) is using a diesel inboard where the kill circuit is wired in the opposite direction [i.e. the switch opens to kill the engine].
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