Is this gear oil a dodgy colour ? - Page 2

office888 · 07 September 2016, 18:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by duggie12

Is that a job for a dealer?

Yeah, they have a handpump and an accurate pressure gauge. They hook it up the lower unit and pressurize it to 400 mbar or so, then they monitor for air leakage. Air leakage = oil out, water in.

You might be able to fashion something up, then spray the prop seal with soapy water...if you see bubbles, it is leaking.

I'd spin the prop on by hand too, to see if maybe there is a little defect in the shaft that breaks the seal while it is spinning.

spartacus · 07 September 2016, 18:42

I'm sure it's the fibre seals. They're inexpensive but crucial, so surprised people don't replace them when completing an oil change. When you tighten the slot-head screws on the fill and drain holes, use a claw-grip on a decent sized screwdriver for a little leverage, but don't over-torque or you'll strip the threads.

duggie12 · 07 September 2016, 18:53

Spartacus, given that the engine is brand new and the bolts have never been removed before, would the culprit not more likely be the suff that got snagged behind the prop? Thanks

Xk59D · 07 September 2016, 19:25

any decent dealer can pressure test it for not much money, or you could do it yourself with a bike pump and the correct adapter with a gauge on it.

it depends how much you want to faff about with it really.

as you found something round prop i would suspect that is where it has come from rather than the fibre washers....but engines normally ship with no oil so whoever PDI'd the engine may have damaged the washer.....can't tell so upto you how to proceed.

the safe way is pressure test or run it for a little while and drain, repeat until happy, your choice.

duggie12 · 07 September 2016, 19:29

Thanks, if I'm looking at the correct part on line it's only about £7, I should really just replace it..

spartacus · 07 September 2016, 19:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by duggie12

Spartacus, given that the engine is brand new and the bolts have never been removed before, would the culprit not more likely be the suff that got snagged behind the prop? Thanks

Didn't read the thread properly Ma Lord!

Not wishing to go off topic, if engine is new, why no warranty?

Looked at the picture of the prop seal, but that looks like weed, not nylon line. Some good advice here about pressure testing.

Xk59D · 07 September 2016, 20:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by duggie12

Thanks, if I'm looking at the correct part on line it's only about £7, I should really just replace it..

not sure what part you are referring to?

if it is the gearbox seal the cost of it isn't the issue, getting at will be probably.

duggie12 · 07 September 2016, 21:30

No warranty because I bought it cash from a chap who imports them from overseas. I took a chance on it

Yeah I was talking about the gearbox seal

Cheers

davej · 08 September 2016, 06:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by duggie12

No warranty because I bought it cash from a chap who imports them from overseas. I took a chance on it

Yeah I was talking about the gearbox seal

Cheers

It's not really very difficult to strip all the lu out and replace the seals, you can probably buy a kit of bits from key parts in Watford and do the lot. I did that with my Merc 60 and a manual . Look on YouTube for a demo. Good lick

The Gurnard · 08 September 2016, 07:21

Hi again Duggie.. perhaps its my naivety in not being a mechanic.. but I found it very easy to replace the seal in my Mariner 3.3HP outboard. Checking the list diagram for parts.. your 9.8 outboard gear box is almost identical to the Mariner (See below diagrams)

Tohatsu diagram 9.8 I got from net ..you want to replace part 22-4 which is the oil seal..(its just a rubber type washer with a spring embedded in it so it grips the shaft) also order and replace the O ring part 22-3 which is another seal you disturb opening the gearbox

Mariner 3.3HP diagram for comparison purpose only.. looks very similar to me..but as mentioned Im not a mechanic ..so could be wrong in that assumption ?

How easy is it to replace ?

Undo the two bolts that you see in the photo you posted.. remove the end housing by breaking the O ring seal with a twisting motion..it then slides out. Hey..then you are in the gearbox..can just lift the prop shaft and its gear / clutch straight out. Yup..its as easy as that.

However to replace the seal. I had to remove the ball race .. part 22-2. My workshop manual recommends a special tool to remove it. I have little more than spanners..screwdrivers and a hammer..but found it came off no problem with a drift from the hammer

When my gear box oil turned milky .. I wanted to open the gearbox to check components ..and ensure they were all clean.. its easy to do. Initially I though the ball race would cause me problems..so I though..get the shaft out..take it to Clyde Outboards and see if they will order the parts and remove the bearing for me. Because I found it easy getting the bearing off ..I just asked them to order the parts..which they did.

Im my manual it recommends renewing the bearing when replacing the seal. I asked Clyde Outboards to order that part too..but they had difficulty getting it..but also told me it was not necessary to replace it.

I have done hundreds of hours on that replaced seal..which I did myself. I may have done something wrong..but the OB didn’t care lol. What you do is your choice.. be be rest assured..its not a difficult job..nor should it be expensive if you don’t fancy doing it yourself ?

Its quicker doing it that writing about or even trying to pressure test .. its a very small and simple gearbox with a basic clutch that is easy to put back together.If you want the instructions for the 3.3 Mariner..I can happily send them when I return from adventures.

If there is a mechanic that sees any flaws in my description..please highlight it for the OP.. as mentioned..Im not an expert..only giving my personal experience

duggie12 · 08 September 2016, 07:32

Cheers donny very useful I should be able to give it a go and if I get stuck I can always pay a mechanaic. I'm keen to learn about the engine so I know how it all works so it will be good to try myself

I'm a bit worried as I often read about how important the initial break in period for an engine is, if the oil leaked early in the break in period then I hope lasting damage hasn't been done to the gearbox

Also it was recommended that I change the oil after 10 hours but I was closer to 20 because I was away up north on a long trip so it could potentially have been running on dodgy oil for a wee while

Won't be the end of the world whatever happens though, it's only an outboard after all :-)

The Gurnard · 08 September 2016, 07:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by duggie12

Cheers donny very useful I should be able to give it a go and if I get stuck I can always pay a mechanaic. I'm keen to learn about the engine so I know how it all works so it will be good to try myself

I'm a bit worried as I often read about how important the initial break in period for an engine is, if the oil leaked early in the break in period then I hope lasting damage hasn't been done to the gearbox

Also it was recommended that I change the oil after 10 hours but I was closer to 20 because I was away up north on a long trip so it could potentially have been running on dodgy oil for a wee while

Won't be the end of the world whatever happens though, it's only an outboard after all :-)

Looking at the diagrams.. the seal appears on the other side of the housing end..so you may not even have to remove the ball race

For info only..my brand new Yamaha was a 20 hour break in period. It doesnt have a warranty now either.. because I did the first service myself.

Changing impellers .. and working on these wee two stroke engines is a piece of pi$$..well worth trying to do yourself. As someone else mentioned..U Tube is full of vids on how to replace impellers etc.

My opinion only though. I have piece of mind that any work done is up to my standard too.