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Old 01 August 2016, 09:58   #11
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I will get out on the boat next week and see what wot is, then repost.

👍 need to get the fundamentals right before you start tweaking😄


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Old 01 August 2016, 14:03   #12
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Ideal revs all depends on Sea Conditons in my experience
It's often much better to up the revs..(and speed) to get on top of the waves for comfort of crew.. and stability..things like loading.. Wave direction and trim will make a big difference too.
If you have a fuel flow meter (in calmish conditions) it's sometimes interesting to see the fuel figures and revs changing in relation to changing Trim..(Hull angle of attack) where even small changes impact...That will soon indicate to you the most efficient low Drag combination and Cruising speed (revs) for your own Boat,Hull,and set up..although it will alter with loading ect as said
Ultimately you soon get to know your Boat,and it becomes a matter of "feel"
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Old 01 August 2016, 16:46   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus View Post
Ideal revs all depends on Sea Conditons in my experience
It's often much better to up the revs..(and speed) to get on top of the waves for comfort of crew.. and stability..things like loading.. Wave direction and trim will make a big difference too.
If you have a fuel flow meter (in calmish conditions) it's sometimes interesting to see the fuel figures and revs changing in relation to changing Trim..(Hull angle of attack) where even small changes impact...That will soon indicate to you the most efficient low Drag combination and Cruising speed (revs) for your own Boat,Hull,and set up..although it will alter with loading ect as said
Ultimately you soon get to know your Boat,and it becomes a matter of "feel"

Adding to what Maxi says, surprisingly with the modern DFI engines, faster actually gives improved economy within limits. I get better economy at 4500 rpm than at 4000 rpm due to the lean burn feature. My Etecs were more efficient at 4700 than at 4200. You need accurate mpg data to find the optimum combination of rpm & trim.


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Old 02 August 2016, 09:38   #14
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Does anyone have a good way to get mpg's. Like I said I have a 2012 Mercury 150 fourstroke. I have just a few gauges....speed, rpms tilt and fuel (nothing even for oil pressure or temp).

I do have a Lowrance HDS7 which has a page for engine information, but I don't have it connected to the outboard.

What's the best was to do this. Standalone fuel flow, or Lowrance.
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Old 02 August 2016, 12:25   #15
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The best way is to create a nmea2000 network & link the engine to your HDS, this will give you all the info you need. I don't know what you already have, so can't advise on how easy/expensive this would be.


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Old 02 August 2016, 12:32   #16
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Engine data on the plotter is the way to go for me, not a separate flow gauge.

If you have nmea currently on the boat that is half the battle?

It will pay for itself over time in fuel saved if you monitor it. It is surprising what a couple of clicks of trim does to the lph usage.
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Old 02 August 2016, 13:15   #17
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I'm at the boat next week, so i'll have a look and update the thread.
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Old 03 August 2016, 04:01   #18
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Do you have the smartcraft speed and tach gauges Paul ? They should be able to show fuel flow (ltr/mile) fuel used, oil pressure etc in the lower LCD screens
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Old 03 August 2016, 06:13   #19
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Hi Jeff, pictured below is my helm. My gauges are like me...the non smart version. There is a screen on the chartplotter to show engine data, but non of it registers, it doesn't appear to be connected to the outboard.

I may be wrong and it just needs to be configured correctly, but my guess is I don't have the NMEA 2000 network connected between the plotter and the outboard.

If that proves to be the case (and I'm sure it is) I am assuming to connect the 2, I would need a NMEA 2000 wiring and t's (a starter kit?), plus an interface of some kind to connect the merc fourstroke to the wiring.

Any thoughts.

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Old 03 August 2016, 07:20   #20
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in order to tell if you have nmea then take the plotter out and see if anything is plugged into it is probably the simple way to do it.

similarly you could check the engine interface and see if a cable is in there too.

given the plotter doesn't show anything and you have non smart gauges i assume you don't have any NMEA on there so you are bang on in you will need a starter kit and the engine loom potentially.

Literally a few clicks of trim is the difference of 2-3 litres per hour on my rib so depending on your usage it could pay off quickly. i have probably done maybe 800 miles in last year so mines has paid for itself for sure.

cheers
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