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Old 20 October 2013, 15:47   #11
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Originally Posted by Hightower View Post
Just a tip to try after making sure you're topped up with fluid.
Exercising the overpressure valves as Hightower suggested helps.

One other thing that seems to help is to run the wheel to lock in one direction, back off about a half turn, and rapidly work the wheel back and forth about 1/4 to 1/2 turn several times. I usually get a bunch of bubbles coming up to the vent (no idea where from.) Repeat at the other lock, then repeat the whole procedure again.

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Old 28 January 2014, 05:27   #12
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I am booked to take the boat out early March so need to get this sorted. Anyone got a manual, I didn't get one with my boat? I want to read over bleeding the system and give this a go before I have to order up a service kit.
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Old 28 January 2014, 06:09   #13
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Spin the wheel lock to lock a few time, pull it into the lock to see if the wheel lets go at all, release it slowly, if it, what can only be called farts, then you need to bleed it, holding on the lock will tell if the seals are funny and the fart is telling you there's air in the system
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Old 28 January 2014, 06:22   #14
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Cheers Biff! You should set up a Biff.Net forum with all your knowledge

I turned the helm all the way to port and I got to the lock I turned it some more but it only moved about -5 minutes (on a clock face) and I didn't want to force it anymore as that took quite a bit of force, It didn't make any noise or 'pull back' turned it over to starboard and it seems fine, turned left and right 'frantically' and again it seems fine, but then after it has rested turning to port very slowly or lightly it has this problem.

I have thought back on when it started to do it, and it only started to do it soon after someone opened the vent on the top of the helm unit, so I think its got air into it, or a lack of fluid, but I topped the fluid up to below the thread for the vent.

Should the fluid level change? as I notice mine goes up and down as you turn..

Should the helm have a slight tick when turning, its always had a tick when turning fast, lock to lock - not that noticeable but still there.

Never having worked or owned a hydraulic system before its all new to me...
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Old 28 January 2014, 06:56   #15
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That clicking is air and the level will go up and down so have plenty of cloth at hand, keep turning it lock to lock, you should be able to put quite some pressure on the lock, I would say 50 lbs, then the other way, don't be tempted to over fill because when it come to rest if there's air in the system it will overflow, if you can make up a reservoir to go on the helm filler it will show you the bubbles coming out, once you've done that and bubbles that haven't gone round the system will need to be bled out of the cylinder at the backend
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Old 28 January 2014, 07:13   #16
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OK, so its looking like a air problem not a seal problem..

Few Questions?
How much fluid should be in the helm reservoir ?
Don't think I can make an external reservoir as I don't have anything that will match that thread and be water tight - so I will have to keep topping it up.

What is the procedure for bleeding /topping up at the helm? turn from lock to lock and keep topping up the fluid?

What is the procedure for bleeding at the ram?

Should the helm vent / fill thumb screw be air tight?

Without a manual I am lost.
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Old 28 January 2014, 08:44   #17
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OK, so its looking like a air problem not a seal problem.. Few Questions? How much fluid should be in the helm reservoir ? Don't think I can make an external reservoir as I don't have anything that will match that thread and be water tight - so I will have to keep topping it up. What is the procedure for bleeding /topping up at the helm? turn from lock to lock and keep topping up the fluid? What is the procedure for bleeding at the ram? Should the helm vent / fill thumb screw be air tight? Without a manual I am lost.
Thumb screw will have a vent. Not critical on the helm for top up, if you do too much it will come back out when you leave it for a while, ram, you need a bit of pipe and a container, pipe on bleed nipple, hard over on lock, undo one, you will know which one it will have some force, if you're unsure if you have all the air at the ram, link the bleed nipples together with a clear tube, open nipples and turn wheel if you see bubbles keep going with the bleed, I'm sure I've forgotten something, someone will let me or you know
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Old 28 January 2014, 10:46   #18
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Got an email from Tom @ JBT

Think I need to find someone with a Power purge system, as they seem impressive!

Anyone know anyone in the NW with one? I have dropped LPB a mail to see if they have one.
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Old 28 January 2014, 11:20   #19
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How much fluid should be in the helm reservoir ?
In general, as much as you can get in there without it spilling out (well, you have to be able to get the plug in, but it should be pretty much full.)


Quote:
Don't think I can make an external reservoir as I don't have anything that will match that thread and be water tight - so I will have to keep topping it up.
Are you talking about a permanent external reservoir? Not really sure that's needed.

If you're talking about for bleeding, I made one up, but don't recall the specifics. The plug is a standard pipe thread size, though, as I recall.


Quote:
What is the procedure for bleeding /topping up at the helm? turn from lock to lock and keep topping up the fluid?

What is the procedure for bleeding at the ram?
Procedure for topping up is easy: remove plug, fill, install plug.

Procedure for bleeding is not helm/ram specific, as it's all one system:

Page 15 of this guy shows the procedure for the standard cylinder:
http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-c...5/296221-E.pdf

If you have a different cylinder, it will probably be listed here:
SeaStar Solutions



Quote:
Should the helm vent / fill thumb screw be air tight?
Don't think it really matters as long as water and dirt don't get in. The plug has a chintzy little rubber gasket, but it is vented to allow for expansion and contraction of the fluid due to temperature, so no, it's not airtight.


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