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Old 11 November 2004, 11:02   #11
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What about cost.........

........no one has mentioned the cost oh hydraulic steering. I have NFB on my 140 but have yet to fully appreciate the pros and cons of the same, however, if someone tells me hydraulic is fab and costs just 200 then whats the poin inquestioning it if it's as good as they say, just buy it. However, I susspect it's rather more than a couple of rounds of drinks so, just how much is it ?
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Old 11 November 2004, 11:28   #12
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Hydraulic Steering vs. Cable

Having just changed boats - well just added one to the fleet - Searider 5.4 still for sale - I have used both cable steering on the Searider and Hydraulic on the Scorpion. The hydraulic is much lighter and easier to use as there is no feedback and more turns lock to lock.

The cable steering on the Avon needed a firm hand and could be quite tiring after a while. However, what I miss is the directness of the cable steering on the Avon. It was about 2 turns lock to lock and when getting airborne you could grab a quarter turn of right hand lock to keep the boat level counteracting the propeller torque.

With the hydraulic steering on the Scorpion I feel a bit more of a passenger and have to let the boat look after itself a bit more - I can't get the lock on and off quick enough to make much of a difference.

While we're talking about hydraulic steering how full should the helm pump reservoir be?

Regards
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Old 11 November 2004, 11:42   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeMe
........no one has mentioned the cost oh hydraulic steering. ... so, just how much is it ?
Have a look here . Looks like Seastar kit is 1000. Not cheap but the best things in life never are...

Searider - IIRC when we refilled the hydraulic system on ours we filled the helm unit right up 'til we couldn't get any more in. I'm sure one of the experts will correct if I'm wrong!
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Old 11 November 2004, 11:46   #14
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While we're talking about hydraulic steering how full should the helm pump reservoir be?

Searider -

On mine (which is only a single "unbalanced" piston/ram - Hydraflex) the fluid should be just below the filler plug in the helm reservoir - with the steering turned so that the ram is in the fully retracted position. If you fill it in the extended position it dumps the surplus oil back out through the filler vent !! ....... and guess how I know this ??
Jeff
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Old 11 November 2004, 11:58   #15
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Bargain, I'm sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Louise
Have a look here . Looks like Seastar kit is 1000. Not cheap but the best things in life never are...

Searider - IIRC when we refilled the hydraulic system on ours we filled the helm unit right up 'til we couldn't get any more in. I'm sure one of the experts will correct if I'm wrong!
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Old 11 November 2004, 12:02   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff
While we're talking about hydraulic steering how full should the helm pump reservoir be?

Searider -

On mine (which is only a single "unbalanced" piston/ram - Hydraflex) the fluid should be just below the filler plug in the helm reservoir - with the steering turned so that the ram is in the fully retracted position. If you fill it in the extended position it dumps the surplus oil back out through the filler vent !! ....... and guess how I know this ??
Jeff
Jeff,

Thanks for that - I think I'll put a little more in and see how I go!

Duncan
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Old 11 November 2004, 12:19   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Searider
Having just changed boats - well just added one to the fleet - Searider 5.4 still for sale - I have used both cable steering on the Searider and Hydraulic on the Scorpion. The hydraulic is much lighter and easier to use as there is no feedback and more turns lock to lock.

The cable steering on the Avon needed a firm hand and could be quite tiring after a while. However, what I miss is the directness of the cable steering on the Avon. It was about 2 turns lock to lock and when getting airborne you could grab a quarter turn of right hand lock to keep the boat level counteracting the propeller torque.

With the hydraulic steering on the Scorpion I feel a bit more of a passenger and have to let the boat look after itself a bit more - I can't get the lock on and off quick enough to make much of a difference.
Regards
Brilliant points - what is so good about "no feedback"? - with cars feedback is vital - it is what makes all the difference!!! Try driving something like a caterham or TVR and then an Audi A4 and you will know what iI mean!!!

Whether it's the same with boats not too sure but from your comments I suspect so!!!
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Old 11 November 2004, 12:27   #18
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Hydraulic option

I have just been quoted 410 in VAT delivered (Barnet Marine) for a Baystar Compact hydraulic kit, suitable for up to 150HP, the same manufacturer does the Seastar which goes up to over 300HP and it is almost twice the price. The Baystar is very smooth and is 5 turns lock to lock, it can be sped up to 4.2 turns by fitting the larger capacity helm pump from the Seastar range but needs hoses cut to length. There is also a slower, heavy duty helm in the Seastar Plus kit, more durable but the ratio is then 5.7 turns. I tried the 5 turn standard unit at SBS and it was very sweet, just fingertips required. The hoses are overbraided and seem very tough. There are other units but I have seen nothing to beat this at the price. you also receive unbeatable friendly service from Hypromarine the importers. I have the NFB unit on my ProSport and it is very sticky so will chuck it in favour of this baby. Hope this helps.
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Old 11 November 2004, 13:44   #19
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After having had cable steering on a previous boat with a Suzuki 115hp, and then putting on hydraulic steering later I found the boat being more stable at higher speeds, and also lighter to steer at all speeds.
I think hydraulic is the only option as soon as You have 100hp or more on a RIB.
Currently have a Baystar fitted to my boat which I am satisfied with.

Sean
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Old 11 November 2004, 14:46   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avanti
After having had cable steering on a previous boat with a Suzuki 115hp, and then putting on hydraulic steering later I found the boat being more stable at higher speeds, and also lighter to steer at all speeds.
I think hydraulic is the only option as soon as You have 100hp or more on a RIB.
Currently have a Baystar fitted to my boat which I am satisfied with.

Sean
Seeing as water behaves a lot like air I can quite understand this - hydraulic controls have all but eliminated elevator flutter from aircraft whereas the slightest inbalance could cause probs with cables/rods.

Having said that it can also mask problems that would appear sooner rather than later - ie flutter on old aircraft really easy to feel but on modern systems the pilot may not notice until metal fatigue causes the whole lot to drop off!!!
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