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Old 06 January 2010, 10:54   #11
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I used to have stiff steering on my 5.8 with a suzzy 90. I upgraded to hydraulic and it made a huge difference. I also found, like you, it was very hard to straighten up after a tight turn almost irrespective of the trim.
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Old 06 January 2010, 18:00   #12
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Re the tab on the cav plate, the engine runs in a straight line and you can take your hands of the steering and it wont go off course, and presumably moving that will affect this. It is worse when trimmed in but still bad when trimmed out. Yes its the same at all speeds. I'm trying to get my wife to drive it more and this isn't helping her confidence. The steering is fine when the engine's not running.
If you have NFB steering then they will be no pull on the wheel when you let go.
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Old 07 January 2010, 12:07   #13
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Might also look at a diferent ratio cable helm; a turn difference lock to lock makes quite a bit of difference in steering effort. Should be cheaper than swapping everything for hydraulic, as well.

jky
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Old 07 January 2010, 16:03   #14
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I second jky on that. It's worth remembering that hydraulic steering would likely be more turns lock to lock than push/pull anyway. Unless it's power assisted, it will still require the same total amount of human energy to turn, but it'll be over more turns with greater ease.
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Old 08 January 2010, 12:05   #15
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My helm is a SeaStar hydraulic; 5 turns lock to lock (as I recall.) [Also close to $1000 US, I think but that's a different matter.]

Not the quickest steering in close quarters. A cheater knob helps quite a bit (though I'd still like to rig the knob so it's inside the wheel diameter, so it doesn't snag on clothing.)

Remember that if you're changing to hydraulic, you need not just the helm (large expense), but also a steering cylinder (not as large an expense, but still considerable) and assorted plumbing and hardware to to make the steery things steer. It gets pricey pretty quickly.

jky
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Old 08 January 2010, 13:28   #16
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My helm is a SeaStar hydraulic; 5 turns lock to lock (as I recall.) [Also close to $1000 US, I think but that's a different matter.]

Not the quickest steering in close quarters. A cheater knob helps quite a bit (though I'd still like to rig the knob so it's inside the wheel diameter, so it doesn't snag on clothing.)

Remember that if you're changing to hydraulic, you need not just the helm (large expense), but also a steering cylinder (not as large an expense, but still considerable) and assorted plumbing and hardware to to make the steery things steer. It gets pricey pretty quickly.

jky
I use a Seastar and I upgraded to helm pump from a 1.6cu" (5 turns) to a 2.4cu" one (3 turns loc to loc)
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Old 08 January 2010, 14:51   #17
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I use a Seastar and I upgraded to helm pump from a 1.6cu" (5 turns) to a 2.4cu" one (3 turns loc to loc)
Yep, I've got one of them too - just right.
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Old 09 January 2010, 03:13   #18
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How Much was Helm

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Yep, I've got one of them too - just right.
Hi

How much was the helm pump ?

Do you have a pert no ?

Cheers

Paul
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Old 09 January 2010, 03:13   #19
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Hi

How much was the helm pump ?

Do you have a pert no ?

Cheers

Paul
Or Even a Part Number?
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Old 09 January 2010, 05:20   #20
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Or Even a Part Number?
The commercial spec version is HH5224 - this has a few more stainless components and better seals than the std version HH5272
Not sure of current prices - if you do a google search, you should find something.

http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/HELMS/Helms.htm
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