How to replace Johnson 4hp throttle cable

[xpertski]

Hi everyone

Can anyone help guide me on how to replace the throttle cable on a Johnson 4hp? Please see photos below. I have taken the top casing off and assumed I’d need to them take the flywheel off but the nut holding that is jammed solid - any ideas? Thanks in advance![ATTACH]129603[/

[xpertski]

So I made the change, got the old throttle cable out and the new one in, but the throttle cable doesn’t seem to push back in and doesn’t seem to extend far enough to enable full throttle, any thoughts?

[Fenlander]

Bear in mind I don't know this OB...

But it looks wrong that when as far as I can see when you are fully throttled back that the nipple is almost about to come out of the plastic "wheel". When the cable isn't on the twistgrip wheel does the twistgrip just go round and round or is there a stop on the twistgrip itself?

Also might it be the cable should go round the twistgrip wheel the other way??

[xpertski]

Sorry for so many questions - but it seems the throttle cable may have snapped in the first place because the part pictured below wasn’t moving. Any idea how to remove it without breaking it? Need to get t moving again so the engine throttle works properly

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Bear in mind I don't know this OB...

But it looks wrong that when as far as I can see when you are fully throttled back that the nipple is almost about to come out of the plastic "wheel". When the cable isn't on the twistgrip wheel does the twistgrip just go round and round or is there a stop on the twistgrip itself?

Also might it be the cable should go round the twistgrip wheel the other way??

Hi Fenlander, thanks for the reply, I’ll check my other outboard but think the issue isn’t rather how the throttle cable is connected in the tiller arm but the other end when the throttle cable is pulled by twisting the throttle there is no movement either way in the base that I have more recently shown a photo of. Presumably the throttle when twisted tightens the cable then should move that plastic base, which itself has a small spring suggesting the throttle when twisted moves it one way, then when the throttle is twisted the other way the spring pulls the plastic base and the throttle cable back ... that plastic base doesn’t seem to move though suggesting it’s jammed, so I’m looking to remove it without breaking to have a good look, release the jam and lube it up.

I’m thinking if this is the problem (last picture taken - that part not rotating) then this may have caused the throttle cable to snap in the first place - ie twisting grip placing excessive force on the throttle cable as it tightened with the said part not moving at all.

Said part is in a part diagram photo below.

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Bear in mind I don't know this OB...

But it looks wrong that when as far as I can see when you are fully throttled back that the nipple is almost about to come out of the plastic "wheel". When the cable isn't on the twistgrip wheel does the twistgrip just go round and round or is there a stop on the twistgrip itself?

Also might it be the cable should go round the twistgrip wheel the other way??

Another photo of a different engine, so think the cable is the right way around in the tiller arm. The cable is bunching up because it’s not being pulled back into the engine when twisting the throttle slackens it, I suspect it’s too tight then the other way around because of the same problem meaning the throttle cannot twist to fully open (without breaking another throttle cable [emoji51])

[xpertski]

No outboard mechanics out there? [emoji16]

[xpertski]

https://youtu.be/EpOHrKXTvIo

At 2:20 it shows said part in picture moving with the throttle. My engine it’s jammed stationary so need to get it off, clean it, lubricate then replace. I’ve sent photos to a Johnson dealer to ask how to get it off so will feed back here what they say

[xpertski]

So for those who may have to do the same job.

1) removing flywheel, having a flywheel remover it’s a doddle. Without one it’s a pain and I had to make, with assistance from neighbour, a retro flywheel remover using a steel bracket, drilled holes in it and some strong bolts. The bolts buckled a bit but with upward tension then a light tap beneath and it popped up.

2) removing the timer and base assembly. So it was jammed and due to a little corrosion wasn’t turning at all, so tight when turning the throttle it clearly broke previous throttle cable. So to take off it was a long process of WD40, gentle tapping one way then the other and an hour later the movement was enough to move it left and right by hand, always applying more WD40. Then when movement was sufficient I wiggles with upward pressure and up it came.

Johnson dealer suggests that I clean with wet dry sandpaper, ultra fine sandpaper just to get the bushing and crankcase perfectly smooth then put back together. Will have a perfectly working and fixed engine then! [emoji106]

[xpertski]

[xpertski]

Also found out why the throttle cable was loose in its fitting so will try to get another connector (which you can see is slightly broken from the photo) ASAP then put back together



ATTACH]129642[/ATTACH]

[xpertski]

Ps advice came from Mark at Wills Marine, great guy!

[Fenlander]

Well done in keeping with the job and posting info that may help others in the future. These OBs were everywhere when I was younger but info has slipped by the wayside somewhat as Mercury, Mariner and Yamaha etc became the main go-to brands.

[paintman]

Interesting read.

As an aside, WD40 isn't much use as a penetrating oil. Plusgas is much better, a 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF if you can get them is very good & in a pinch diesel does a pretty good job!

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by paintman

Interesting read.

As an aside, WD40 isn't much use as a penetrating oil. Plusgas is much better, a 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF if you can get them is very good & in a pinch diesel does a pretty good job!

Thanks yeah other products probably better. Though not the best for the job WD40 did do the job - probably why I had to use copious amounts of it [emoji23] ... though it was just working it into the join little bit at a time with each movement

[xpertski]

Job finished - re assembled, parts wet dry sanded until smooth. Now operates as it should! [emoji106]

[Fenlander]

Well done, job satisfaction I bet.