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Old 23 September 2015, 15:15   #51
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I think if you get 500 I would take it, it is going to exceed market value to fix it at that money.

BTW, where did the 107 quid come from for a mid section? That is mega cheap.
He's used the very minumum price that the parts would cost as he was quite sneaky and phoned Davie off here. Davie, if you're reading this, apologies for that. The guy has accepted no responsibility for not preparing an item for sale properly, instead he keeps quoting the price he payed a dealer 18 months ago (2700) and how much HE'S lost on it - irrelevant I think you'll agree.

I have several options now, sell the whole rig as is (it's on ebay now)
I've had several enquiries about the engine on its own. I've asked them to make me an offer around the 500 mark.
I've had an offer for the whole rig for 1000 from a dealer. Said dealer has a package I may be interested in p/x, details of which I will run by you guys as agreed/offered.

A question about removing the outboard. Looks pretty straightforward but it has one of those yamaha outboard locks on one of the bolts and no key for it.
Will this pose a huge problem?

I can't thank you guys enough for the advice.
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Old 23 September 2015, 16:15   #52
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Will this pose a huge problem?
It would delay a good thief by about 90 seconds - so it will probably take you 1/2 a day!
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Old 23 September 2015, 16:26   #53
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Those locks are often missing their key and rusted solid on an older boat. Had to deal with the same a few years back and found the easiest way was to centre punch and drill off the bolt head from the outside of the transom and punch it through. Not too bad that way.
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Old 23 September 2015, 17:52   #54
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Got some flush muffs today (lost my other set) and will be making a video later, will also add to the advert that I may consider splitting the package (would have to be engine sold first as have nowhere to store it.)
One question on this, is it OK to select gears when using just flush muffs, or will this cause damage?

Don't run it in gear out of water, if you want to show it running in gear get it in a tank! And then take it easy or you will soon have a empty tank!
Angle grinder for the lock, tock me minuets to get one off my old Sr4
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Old 23 September 2015, 18:12   #55
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If he paid 2700 then that was his choice.

you can run it in gear, but don't rev it as per my earlier post.

There in nothing wrong making sure the gearbox is okay before going anywhere.

Angle grinder for the bolt will do the job.
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Old 23 September 2015, 19:08   #56
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Anyone who knows Yamaha knows that this is a very common problem on the old 50D. It is not impact damage it is corrosion of the mount seat due to the massive lump of stainless bolted to the alloy leg. It is the first thing I look at on an old 40/50- I must've replaced at least fifteen of these legs in the past, infact we actually used to keep a leg casting in stock as it was such a common problem when the engines were only 5-10 years old. It used to affect the electric start version far more than the manual start version.

The leg was totally redesigned for the later 40/50, then they started using the 60/70 detuned for the 50D which was a much better engine.

Nowadays I would just write the engine off as their value is not worth repairing these days. I had four or five of them sat at the back of my workshop at one point with this problem.
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Old 25 September 2015, 14:30   #57
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Hi all

Got an old workmate who is very well versed in tinkering with outboards coming to look at the engine on Monday with a view to telling me if it's a job he'd recommend going ahead and fixing. He seems very confident like many other it's a pretty easy fix.

Did a compression test earlier on it.

1 (100)
2 (95)
3 (95)

That acceptable for a 25 years old 2 stroke?
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Old 25 September 2015, 14:50   #58
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A slight variation on cylinders is okay. If this is corrosion as suggested then the initial thoughts of bent drive shaft can be ruled out. Still leaves the fairly major problem of removing the engine bolts from the engine tray, and sourcing a mint mid section.
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Old 25 September 2015, 14:59   #59
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A slight variation on cylinders is okay. If this is corrosion as suggested then the initial thoughts of bent drive shaft can be ruled out. Still leaves the fairly major problem of removing the engine bolts from the engine tray, and sourcing a mint mid section.

thanks

All ten bolts holding the mid section to the main tray are moving and I've found an excellent condition donor thats currently being stripped down. So I'm feeling a bit more upbeat about things
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Old 26 September 2015, 02:20   #60
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Even compression though low, may be worth fixing. I read above the corrosion was do to a stainless steel nut..dunno about that. The proper grade SS is the only thing to use to prevent galvanic corrosion against unlike metals or alloys. Judging by the picture, if the motor was used in salt water and the anode became worn away and a crack in the lower case was there than that is where the salt water starts eating. Changing a lower case is not too big a job, just find one to replace it with at a reasonable price maybe an issue. Don't use it as it is. Good Luck.
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