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Old 30 September 2013, 15:00   #11
Country: UK - England
Town: Looe
Make: Delta
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mercury
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,335
Originally Posted by clydeoutboards View Post

Pre mixing is far safer. The commercial fishing guys love to tell stories about the poor sod who's auto mixer failed and killed the engine and to be fair it is a single point of failure that you can get rid off v easily.
But if its an Opti don't pre mix it!! you will kill the air compressor!

Black Dog Marine
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Old 30 September 2013, 15:57   #12
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,298
I use a graduated syringe barrel in place of the oil reservoir and run the motor on pre-mix to measure consumption. Gives an accurate measurement and the oil pump is running under normal load ie pumping the oil into the fuel line or crankcase, rather than into an empty pot.

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Old 01 October 2013, 06:31   #13
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,614
Originally Posted by Jwmarineuk View Post
Apart from noticing the level decrease in the tank is there any other way I can know the oil an fuel is mixing properly?
The engine will stop suddenly accompanied by a horrible grinding noise!

Joking aside, 2 thoughts here: (as someone who premixes)

1) Premix is messy. If you get even a small spill your deck WILL become a skating rink, and unless you know exactly how much premix has been used, or have a totally dry tank you can never properly guestimate where the level actually is, so will inevitably run over oiled. (which some may argue is no bad thing, but having bought a used engine from someone who thought along those lines & threw in an extra 100ml each time "to be on the safe side", trust me, too much can be a bad thing......

2) My old Suz DT25 had an oil flow switch fitted right by the injection point. It was a wee pressure activated thing held open by the oil flow. That sat in-line on the oil pipe and on "no flow" closed contacts. It was (I believe) wired in parallel to the deadman, as Ipulled the plug & shorted the terminals & the engine stopped dead.

Assuming you have a pump -hose type system, I guess you could retro fit one of these off asn old Suzi and parallel it to your stop circuit. IF your Merc is old enough, there may be a "no run when tilted" mercurey switch - that would be a simple replacement of the mercury (level) switch with the wire from the oil flow sensor.

In some respects (usually wehen filling the tank or doing a lot of slow speed work) I do miss auto mixing......
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Old 01 October 2013, 16:04   #14
Locozodiac's Avatar
Country: Other
Town: Lima-Peru
Boat name: Nautile
Make: Sea Rider Boats
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 /30 HP
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,706
The only thing that I find positive about having a autolube system is that precisely delivers less oil when at idle and more when at wot, down issue is that if pump fails engine will severely overheat and seize.

Donw issue running on pre-mix is that standard 50:1 ratio is excellent for wot boating and much worse for idle boating as tends to foul plugs more, boater will need to live with this last one or change plugs more frequently.-

Happy Boating
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Old 02 October 2013, 10:43   #15
Country: UK - England
Town: Plymouth
Make: Humber
Length: 4m +
Engine: 2007 Merc 75hp 2S
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 89
Hi and thankyou for your replies!

My engine is carbed and not opti.

Have serviced it this week so hopefully no problems with oil mixing!

Taking it on the Water tomorrow so will run further tests then!


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