Hillock Engine Lock Info

CUSAC · 29 September 2013, 10:26

I have recently taken over the maintenance of our club RIB and have found that the engine is mounted far too low, hurting our speed and fuel economy. I would like to raise it but there is an 11 year old Hillock engine lock through the transom.

The key goes in a fair way (shown in picture) but then won't twist. Does anyone have experience with these (or have a manual) and could please explain how it should undo? I believe it may be seized due to it's age and frequent submerging. Just wanted to check I haven't missed something obvious before getting the angle grinder out.

Thanks in advance

Nos4r2 · 29 September 2013, 12:43

Get the grinder out, it's seized.

If it looks like that outside it'll be worse inside.

Maximus · 29 September 2013, 13:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Get the grinder out, it's seized.

If it looks like that outside it'll be worse inside.

I should KAE-CO!

matt h · 29 September 2013, 13:20

Lets just keep this "Low Key" and get the grinder out without delay!

PeterM · 29 September 2013, 18:19

Grind it off ! ( maybe the bolt head on the outside of the transom - then just pull the remains through the transom)

CUSAC · 29 September 2013, 19:01

Cheers guys, that was the answer I was expecting but not looking forward to!

Would be nice to just grind the head off but looks like they may have welded/bonded the bolt into the bracket as there isn't much of a head (fitted by Humber I believe).

ShinyShoe · 29 September 2013, 19:24

Looks like a coach bolt to me

Will not be easy to get the head off that and pull through.

I think this (from a patent) is what you are dealing with:

SPR · 29 September 2013, 19:53

same lock I had in my engine - attacked from the back - carefully grinding it off

S.

CUSAC · 30 September 2013, 12:54

Thanks for the replies, really useful diagram Shiny.

As the grinding will take place in the bilge near the fuel lines and water separator is it best to leave it all as it is (sealed system) or disconnect fuel tank and clamp the fuel lines?

colcreate · 30 September 2013, 13:08

Better to drill from the outside.
Center pop the coach bolt head and put a pilot drill in about 20mm deep. Then increase drill size in stages to the thread diameter. If you are careful you will be surprised how easy it is to do. Once the head is gone you should be able to remove the engine and then deal with the remaining shank of the coach bolt.

Also if trying the grinding option, rather than grinding use 1mm thick slitting discs on your angle grinder, they are wickedly quick at slicing through stainless, believe me I have had some experience in this!
Always use them edge on and never be tempted to use the face of the disc to grind.

SPR · 30 September 2013, 13:32

One I did earlier grinding off from the back!

S.

Jeff Hutcheon · 30 September 2013, 14:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by colcreate

Better to drill from the outside.
Center pop the coach bolt head and put a pilot drill in about 20mm deep. Then increase drill size in stages to the thread diameter. If you are careful you will be surprised how easy it is to do. Once the head is gone you should be able to remove the engine and then deal with the remaining shank of the coach bolt.

Also if trying the grinding option, rather than grinding use 1mm thick slitting discs on your angle grinder, they are wickedly quick at slicing through stainless, believe me I have had some experience in this!
Always use them edge on and never be tempted to use the face of the disc to grind.

As above ,drill the head off and punch it throu !!

CUSAC · 20 November 2013, 22:55

Just a quick update.

Thanks for all the advice, have finally got round to removing the engine lock and raising the engine. Has transformed how the boat responds so really chuffed!