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Old 25 November 2015, 23:02   #1
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Help! Buggered the Motor on My SR4. How Bad Is This??

Recently bought this Avon SR4 and got the motor working great. I mean GREAT! The two test runs in the harbor were awesome, but there was this little squeak, squeak at idle in neutral, so today after installing new control cables, I decided to use a socket to see if the motor mounts were loose. I barely touched it and WHAMO!! The fricken nut just fell off.

The first two pics are of the broken bolt. The second is the other side and what it's supposed to look like. It looks to me like one would have to remove the whole power head to fix this, but I bet that any bolt I tried to remove to repair it would also break!

I'm guessing it's not at all safe to run this even at slow speed? Any ideas? This is a 1986 Mariner ML30 and parts are really hard to find. I'm super bummed.
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Old 26 November 2015, 02:54   #2
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thats an easy fix for a mechanic using a stud extractor or he will drill it out and retapp it for a new bolt
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Old 26 November 2015, 04:51   #3
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thats an easy fix for a mechanic using a stud extractor or he will drill it out and retapp it for a new bolt
I'm not sure that will work. I think the the 'head' of the bolt is embedded in the rubber with another pointin in the other direction into the tray.

They're good engines.
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Old 26 November 2015, 05:22   #4
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Hugh is correct. It's a big lump of rubber with a threaded part attached to each end. The bolt doesn't go through the rubber. Just looks a bit like a mushroom stuck onto each end of the rubber.
It looks like this (posted as an example pic only): Mercury Mariner Upper Side Mount 82557M 1977-97 25 28 30 35 HP | eBay
You'll find a schematic of your engine if you go here:
1986 Mariner Outboard 30 [ML] [ 7030226] - Parts Lookup - Crowley Marine then left click on the brown 'View components' bar. Go down the menu that appears on the left & left click 'Mounting system'. The part you need is No 17 in the diagram.
Unfortunately it does look like a PITA to fit.

(FWIW there are several similarly constructed smaller mounts on the cowl of my Merc 135 & they are a complete PITA as the metal keeps separating from the rubber. As they don't carry much load I just clean the mating faces up & epoxy them back together. Damned if I'm paying 20 odd each! This is unlikely to work with yours though as it appears yours may have a higher load. I do toy with the idea of just drilling though the rubber & substituting a bolt, but this would obviously affect the anti-vibration qualities of the rubber mount.
There is a square portion on each thread which fits the hole in the engine to stop one end turning as you tighten the other so with this type of mount if you can't get at both ends - as would be the case with a bolt - tightening could be a problem as the bolt may just spin unless you can use another way of preventing that. A longer exposed thread on the exposed part could be gripped if you use a normal nyloc nut instead of the acorn you currently have.)

ETA and NB! On the standard mount the nuts at each end are only intended to be nipped up. Continuing to tighten beyond that point won't do anything to the rubber part but will shear the end off the thread.
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Old 26 November 2015, 09:20   #5
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Dont be down hearted, that is just a minor snag. Those engines are old but bloody good. Our MOD ran them for years.
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Old 26 November 2015, 12:27   #6
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It's hard for me to figure out, but it looks like much of that load is for the grip and tiller mounts. Am I wrong? The tiller hand is NFG as all the cables are seized and the shift shaft fell apart inside it. That was one of the first things I tried to take apart and one of those bolts broke immediately. No big deal there, so I just left it. Fast forward two months and my brain forgot to be careful of seized nuts/bolts. I just use the controls and don't worry about the tiller handle so no biggie.

I'm not sure if that mount is really taking any weight or not or if there is any danger of the motor falling into the sea. At least knowing there is another head holding it from the inside helps. Taping the bolt might be a good idea if not holding a lot of weight. Otherwise, Removing the powerhead to get access will most definitely mean a lot more broken seized/broken bolts and a massive PITA.
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Old 27 November 2015, 04:19   #7
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Issue will be how the engine is attached to the steering pivot shaft. If those two mounts are the only attachment for the top of the engine then it could be an issue as the broken side could fret, if they don't then it won't be.
Needs someone who has had one apart for the answer.

I wonder if a threaded stud could be welded onto the broken end in situ? Be worth speaking to an engineering company local to you.
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Old 27 November 2015, 07:20   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintman View Post
Issue will be how the engine is attached to the steering pivot shaft. If those two mounts are the only attachment for the top of the engine then it could be an issue as the broken side could fret, if they don't then it won't be.
Needs someone who has had one apart for the answer.

I wonder if a threaded stud could be welded onto the broken end in situ? Be worth speaking to an engineering company local to you.
its called stud welding done that for a while would be too tight to get the ceramic in which holds the weld plus too much heat generated and would burn the rubber.
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Old 27 November 2015, 07:28   #9
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It's a rubber engine mount and you need to replace it. The rubber is attached to a steel plate at either end and the steel plate has a stud as part of its structure. That stud on yours is sheared off.

You need to screw the rubber part out of the block. Its a bit tricky without removing other parts, but it can be done providing it too is not seized into the aluminium. Be sure to lubricate the threads with water resistant grease on reassembly.

If you find it impossible to remove it in situ, just be patient and work away dismantling whatever is necessary, remembering to use that grease on every thread on reassembly.
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Old 27 November 2015, 08:27   #10
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its called stud welding done that for a while would be too tight to get the ceramic in which holds the weld plus too much heat generated and would burn the rubber.
Thanks. I did wonder.
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