Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 27 November 2015, 08:49   #11
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker View Post
You need to screw the rubber part out of the block. Its a bit tricky without removing other parts, but it can be done providing it too is not seized into the aluminium. Be sure to lubricate the threads with water resistant grease on reassembly.
Parts diagram & the pic of the part shows a nut at each end of the mount instead of a thread cut in the driveshaft housing for it to screw into.
Is it the case that its actually a captive nut inside the housing - the unbroken end - & the square portion at the bottom of the thread on the mount is free to turn & not locked in to a similar shaped hole which would prevent turning? If it's not a captive nut then it either won't come off once it's loose enough to turn or it will fall off inside the housing & - assuming it isn't accessible without taking a lot of other stuff off -then how do you get it onto the new mount?
As I said earlier, my experience of this type of mount is that the nuts are not captive & the square part fits into a square hole - visible on his pics of the broken one - which prevents the mount turning as it's being done up.

I'm guessing that you might have done this on one of these engines & if that's the case I stand to be corrected!
__________________

__________________
paintman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 November 2015, 09:25   #12
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Make: Humber / Phantom
Length: 5m +
Engine: Lots of Yamahas
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 137
There is a nut on the inside of the leg. You have to strip it down to sort it.

Usually those two side mounts are fine, it is the front mount which lets go and causes the tray and engine to rattle around at idle. The front mount is visible through a hole under the lower tray - you will see a nut there and you will be able to see if it has let go.

I have rebuilt dozens of these engines over the years (it is based on the original Yamaha 20/25/28hp. they are an excellent engine and far preferable to Yamahas later twin carb 20/25 autolube "high tech" range.

Their only real weakness is there is a small recess on the block casting by the lower cylinder liner to accommodate a head bolt and still leave a full width for the waterway. Corrosion attacks this point and gets between the liner and the block and can either split the alloy causing head gasket leak or actually ovalise the liner causing the lower piston to nip up at tdc.
__________________

__________________
phantom 19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 November 2015, 19:27   #13
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,962
Quote:
Originally Posted by paintman View Post
Parts diagram & the pic of the part shows a nut at each end of the mount instead of a thread cut in the driveshaft housing for it to screw into.
Is it the case that its actually a captive nut ......
Yes, you've brought it back to mind, it is a nut but not a captive one. Apologies for the bum steer. I think I've got an old casing somewhere, if I remember tomorrow, I'll take a pic of the inside for you.
__________________

__________________
JW.
jwalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:36.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.