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Old 28 June 2011, 17:19   #11
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Thanks - this makes interesting reading: New Boatbuilders Home Page - Everything Boat Building - Fuel Systems

I think I'm going to go and find an expert, and talk to my local boat builder.

Don't want to blow myself up.
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Old 28 June 2011, 17:25   #12
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Hi Kubcat...

I have a stainless steel tank, sitting on a Fibreglass hull, and have used stainless screws and brackets around the tank for that reason, to prevent dissimilar metals.

The only dissimilar metals would be the metal in the fuel filter and fuel filter fittings, which are close to the tank. Cause of issue?

re "As for your tank, if you have positive and negative from the sender, it will work without an extra ground wire."

So, does that mean I don't need to worry about anything? I indeed have in and out cables from the sender... what about any connections to the filler cap etc...

This image has extra grounding for tank and filler cap: http://newboatbuilders.com/images/Fuel_Tank.jpg

Thanks
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Old 28 June 2011, 17:52   #13
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Halmatic fitted my boat with stainless tanks which, along with the outboards, are connected to an anode. There is also a cable between the tanks and their metal filler necks.

They've been building boats for a while now, I'm happy to take their word on the subject...
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Old 28 June 2011, 17:58   #14
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Ok, having spoke to Marine Electrician:

ground cable from filler cap to tank
ground cable from tank to engine block
less than 1ohm resistance across the lot

I might do it all, and then take it in to show them to get the tick of approval.

really not tempted to blow myself up.

Searider/martini, looks like you were on the ball...


Thanks all
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Old 28 June 2011, 18:10   #15
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rjbathgate,

Grounding the filler cap to the tank, the tank to the engine and the engine is obviously to the battery negative, so you have a complete loop for lightning and for static discharge while refuelling and as you have a fibreglass boat, no problem with dissimilar metals. No need to worry about fuel filter as they are not connected to dissimilar metals and too small to attract lightning. Even your sender is stainless and you are using stainless fixing screws, so no issues.

Enjoy.

It is nice to use heat shrink or liquid electrical tape on the ends of the wires to stop them going green and eventually failing.
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Old 28 June 2011, 18:22   #16
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Thanks kubcat...

So I now need to run a cable from tank (bow) to engine... not going to be a fun afternoon.

Anyone got a well trained mouse?
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Old 28 June 2011, 22:34   #17
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You are already running a wire from your tank to your gauge, just make sure it is twin wire, one to the gauge and one to a negative somewhere in your console. The negative in your console will be attached to your engine so you don't have to do it again.

You can then use the mouse to turn a wheel that is attached to a generator that keeps your battery charged ..... hahaha
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Old 28 June 2011, 22:37   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kubcat View Post
You are already running a wire from your tank to your gauge, just make sure it is twin wire, one to the gauge and one to a negative somewhere in your console. The negative in your console will be attached to your engine so you don't have to do it again.

You can then use the mouse to turn a wheel that is attached to a generator that keeps your battery charged ..... hahaha
My negatives in my console run to the -ve on the battery (also in the console) so any quickest route would be to battery, rather than out to engine... does that matter? Can I just bang the tank ground to that? Won't that just give me the same as grounding it directly to -ve post?

My cat keeps on killing the mice... no wonder my battery goes dead over winter!
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Old 29 June 2011, 04:13   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjbathgate View Post
My negatives in my console run to the -ve on the battery (also in the console) so any quickest route would be to battery, rather than out to engine... does that matter? Can I just bang the tank ground to that? Won't that just give me the same as grounding it directly to -ve post?

My cat keeps on killing the mice... no wonder my battery goes dead over winter!
I won't bore you with the theory, just bang the tank ground to the battery -ve, that will be fine.
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Old 29 June 2011, 08:10   #20
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The negative post on the battery is not a true 'ground'. To achieve this you would need a proper ground plate fitted to the hull to allow static discharge to the sea. Connecting everything together and linking to the neg post on the battery will not earth the items and may also create corrosion. As Martini stated, his is connected to an anode which will limit corrosion and also act as a partial ground.

Depending on your sender type, the two wires running to it may also not be connected to 12v or 0v but may be just a loop out of the gauge sensing resistance.
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