Originally Posted by 4str
Most of the time I use a product called "Salt Away" that is supposed to help disolve accumulated salt. It comes as a kit with an aplicator that screws in line with a garden hose. Mechanics here say it keeps the head and water passages free of accumulated salt. Then again, most mechanics work where they sell the stuff - so take that with a grain of salt!
Sea salt is pretty readily dissolvable in fresh water, so I kind of doubt the Salt-Away is absolutely necessary. It may, however, leave some sort of anti-corrosion coating or residue; don't know about that.
I have run all my motors with just a straight fresh-water flush and have had no problems. That said, there's a lot of folks who leave the boat in the water and almost never flush, and I haven't really heard of too many problems there, either, so go figure.
RibinSpain; sounds like you're going the overkill route: The flush port is designed to flush the motor, and running it on the muffs will flush the motor. Doing both won't hurt, but I don't really see doing both as necessary, either.
Couple of little tips:
If you have more than 2 intakes (the ones on the sides of the legs; Hondas have one in the bottom of the anti-ventilation plate, for example), tape up the one that is not used with a piece of duct tape.
Don't wrap the rpms up while running on the muffs; idle speed or a bit more is fine.
Let the motor run long enough on the muffs to get the thermostats open (should be realtively quick as there is generally less water flow compared to normal running.)
Draining the prop nacelle after recovery and after flushing will eliminate one source of moisture induced corrosion (and in a place where it will not be noticed until you have to disassemble it.)