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Old 18 May 2004, 03:51   #11
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Country: UK - Scotland
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Unfortunately, when the engine was lowered onto this, the device deformed (the rubber is too soft at this length) so that was no good...

Next I cut a smaller version....
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Old 18 May 2004, 04:10   #12
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Then clipped both the new device and the original to shaft...

and lowed the engine down ........

It works fine, and keeps the skeg of my outboard well clear for trailering,
but I think in futere I would use a nylon roller rather than rubber, then there would not be the same deforming problem.

The best thing about it - no bungees or tie-downs - it just clips on!
I hope this is useful to someone....
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Old 18 May 2004, 05:25   #13
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Country: UK - England
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Following on from last week i had an abortive attempt at making a chock on Saturday and gave up after snapping the control clip for my hydrolic lift from the handle, so i found myself with the engine hanging in mid air unable to lift it up or lower it down and spent the rest of Saturday afternoon scouring the southeast for type specific part, eventually i sourced one from Wayne maddox marine at Margate and refitted the clip.

After this i gave up......... Bills block around the piston looks like the best idea, so where would one purchase a nylon roller to fit around the piston ?

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Old 18 May 2004, 09:13   #14
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Country: UK - Wales
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Unless cesigned to be travelled on the hydraulics, even with an additional chock, I would suggest that this set up creates a lot of unecessary load on your rig.

Johnson/Evinrude use braket on some of thier engines, whilst Mercury / Mariner suggest a "crutch" from trailer to skeg. In fact, in the manual for the last Opti I owned, trailering on the hydraulics was a definite no no! A block of hardwood, clamped between the "jaws" of the o.b bracket is a good, structurally safe alternative I think.
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Old 18 May 2004, 09:18   #15
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Winchill

I was attempting to make up a woodern block to fit between the jaws on my rude on Saturday when i broke the hydrolic clip i'd given up the cut up roller idea of Redfox as the roller i needed was expensive and loathed to chop up a good roller anyway !!

My engine had the brackets you mentioned both sides, one side kept breaking so i had it properly welded back on but now the other side has broken and disapeared somewhere, in conclusion i considered an alternative to the supports whilst in transit.
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Old 18 May 2004, 09:28   #16
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Mercury/Mariner have only one mooring type support, so you can imagine the forces using that alone would generate through the relatively brittle cast bracket when subjected to trailering loads.

A decent lump of Kapur/Keruing is what I used, machined to give a comfortable height above the road for the skeg, whilst keeping the engine as otherwise vertical as possible.
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Old 18 May 2004, 10:00   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windchill
A decent lump of Kapur/Keruing is what I used
Available at a sustainable Malaysian rain forest near you or, in case of difficulty, Anglesey Timber in Holyhead.

Richard, how long would you recommend seasoning kapur for, since I understand its moisture content can be extremely variable? In the case of keruing one should be aware that there can be issues with the high silica and resin levels present in this particular wood and to this end it would perhaps be circumspect to use only tungsten carbide saw blades.

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Old 18 May 2004, 10:25   #18
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Ho bloody ho!!!

Its about time I bought a boat isn't it!!!
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Old 18 May 2004, 10:31   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windchill
Ho bloody ho!!!

Its about time I bought a boat isn't it!!!
Bloody right - you can't afford to miss another Anglesey summer RIBless
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Old 20 May 2004, 07:59   #20
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I simply use couple of rubber rollers placed horizontally under engine and lower engine onto them. No problem.
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