Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 16 April 2011, 16:20   #1
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset
Boat name: Seabadger
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140
MMSI: -
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 503
Engine re-assembly - what grease?

I've had to completely strip 2 Mariner 40HP engines to replace all the shot engine mounting bushes. Bi-metallic corrosion had seized many of the stainless bolts into the aluminium and I ended up have to very carefully drill 6 of them out and re-form the threads.

I'm now almost ready to re-assemble (just waiting on new bushes from Bill Higham marine) and wondering which grease to use to reduce corrosion should the engines ever have to come apart again. I have super red and tacky marine trailer bearing grease and anti seize copper brake grease and teflon based waterproof bike grease. Which would be the best bet?

Already thoroughly cleaned all the threads of all the holes and will use new 316 bolts,nuts and washes where possible.

It was such a painstaking job I never want to have hassle with it again!
__________________

__________________
diver 1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2011, 17:45   #2
Member
 
spartacus's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 60hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,268
RIBase
I'd personally use a Duckhams marine grease. This isn't a job you're likely to do again anyway. Trailer bearing grease is fine, but odds are you'll service the bearings every other season. Copper-ease is a good anti-sieze product, but not in a marine environment. And for the Teflon bike grease, I'm sure it's fine and dandy, but probably isn't up to the job. Wear latex or nitrile gloves when using.

More details here: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/multi...tentId=7055324
__________________

__________________
spartacus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2011, 19:03   #3
RIBnet admin team
 
Nos4r2's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
Make: Ballistic 7.8/SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Opti 225/Yam 85
MMSI: 235090687/235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,645
RIBase
Don't use copper based grease-you'll have corrosion issues.

I use Corrosion Block grease for reassembly now.
__________________
Need spares,consoles,consumables,hire,training or even a new boat?

Please click HERE and HERE and support our Trade Members.

Join up as a Trade member or Supporter HERE
Nos4r2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 April 2011, 13:25   #4
Member
 
mitchc's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Essex
Boat name: Kestrel
Make: Gemini
Length: 6m +
Engine: Opti 150
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 289
Be wary about using grease on critical bolts(mains, big ends, head bolts) you can change the clamp load characteristic of the bolt which can cause snapped/sheared bolts when taken up to the recommended torque.
For most of my engine builds if I need a non critical bolt to come out again I use silkolene rg2. Been using it for years ands it's never let me down.

Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
__________________
mitchc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 April 2011, 13:35   #5
Member
 
martini's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: jersey
Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
MMSI: 235067688
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,021
The best stuff to use to prevent galvanic corrosion, perfect for ss bolts in aluminium is tef-gel. It's expensive, but you don't need to use much.
__________________
martini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 April 2011, 13:37   #6
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchc View Post
Be wary about using grease on critical bolts(mains, big ends, head bolts) you can change the clamp load characteristic of the bolt which can cause snapped/sheared bolts when taken up to the recommended torque.
Lots of opinions on this one. One school is that the torque holding force is due to the threads tightening down on each other; another is determined by a combination of friction in the threads and the head of the bolt, and a certain amount of stretch; another is that it's all in the stretch (which distorts the threads, locking them in place)More than likely there are a bunch of others.

Use of grease or advisement against doing so would depend on which school you believe.

jky
__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 April 2011, 14:48   #7
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Looe
Make: Delta
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mercury
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,335
Quicksilver special Lube 101.
__________________
Black Dog Marine
www.blackdogmarine.com
Turbodiesel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 April 2011, 16:16   #8
ADI
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: scotland
Make: a few
Length: 6m +
Engine: outboard / inboard
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 68
Quicksilver special Lube 101

Any Mercury dealer will supply it to you. It is the best I've used
__________________
ADI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 April 2011, 16:45   #9
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Make: Valiant
Length: 5m +
Engine: 75 Optimax
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 108
Quicksilver 101.

It looks like The Hulks load but its amazing stuff.
__________________

__________________
Damien. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:27.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.