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Old 31 March 2004, 07:06   #11
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Tigger II
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Hi folks

I used to tow by 4.8 with the engine up and lowered onto the failsafe clip.

However I belive you do have to be careful of the engine damaging the transom due to the weight being a long way from the transom & setting up oscillations as you drive.

Under normal use the weight is close to and over the transom, giving little leverage and the drive force being applied low down on the outboard bracket and hence transom, when towing with the enging up these forces moves may a few feet from the center lof the transom and up high, giving considerable leverage.

I belive the key is correct towball/nose weight to stop the transom bouncing to much.

Saying that I towed my 4.8 thousands of miles with no problems.

As far a towning on water, I think down.

If your leg/outboard is down at speed you still have stearage to keep your RIB pointing to the point of tow on the towing boat. Which is how a boat should be towed
With it up you have no control at all.

If it is down I would run with the prop/emgine in gear stopping the prop rotating. This causes LESS drag than a freely rotating prop and removes any problems of lubrication which may not be present without the engine running.

Regards Gary
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Old 31 March 2004, 07:30   #12
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On my baot I have made a frame for the road lights that slides into the trailer frame its not a roller coaster, and have put a wood platform on it, I then lower the engine down onto the wood it rests on the skeg for towing, taking all the strain of the transom as it does not bounce.

Nick.
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Old 31 March 2004, 10:15   #13
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I put the engine onto the clip in the upright position and then run a short ratchet strap from the mount, round the engine above the lower bearing and back to the mount. Stops all bounce and is a 2 sec job to place and remove.
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Old 31 March 2004, 11:23   #14
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Also, put "full lock" on the wheel so that the "ram" of the stearing mechanism is fully collapsed.

In this way you will reduce the shock on the steering mechanism as you bounce down the road!!! - Seems much less movement than in the "straight ahead" position

Jools
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Old 31 March 2004, 11:37   #15
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Yep Jools/ Rupert,

forgot to mention full lock (either side doesn't matter)
& as I 'power' the engine on to the mount using the hydraulic's so there is NO bounce at all.

Pete
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Old 31 March 2004, 15:14   #16
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I'd never be able to tow with the outboard lowered, the reson is that I'd wipe out the leg if I went over a speed ramp or something
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Old 31 March 2004, 15:49   #17
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I always used to tow with the engine powered down onto a 9inchish bit of wood. Argument being that the fairly flimsy metal engine rest was designed for the boat being stationary on the trailer not banging up and down at 65mph!
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Old 31 March 2004, 18:08   #18
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Couldn't agree more Alan. I think all engine user manuals clearly state that the leg support is not to be used for towing.

We made up a nice hardwood "wedge" for the engine to rest on. Will post a piccy if I can find the bl**dy thing. The boat is stored ashore with the engine down.
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Old 01 April 2004, 00:49   #19
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I read my engines manual(Yamaha) when I collected it the other weekend-wife says I,m sad-but it said to tow(on road) with the engine down,however where this is not possible,to use an"engine support strut".Not knowing what this is,I asked the dealer who said to use the catch on the side of the engine to tow with the outboard up for short distances,but to use a block of wood between the leg and the mount for further distances.
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Old 01 April 2004, 03:23   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by timboli
"engine support strut".
Its a metal rod thingy that you can buy from the engine manufacturer for an inordinate sum. A precision engineered lump of wood is just as effective and a darn sight cheaper!!

I too always store the boat with the engine down. Just dont forget to raise it before commencing a journery!!
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