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Old 24 September 2003, 18:17   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by Richard B
Me too.
ditto
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Old 25 September 2003, 03:26   #12
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Up and locked!
People have been towing like this for 100's of years (a bit of an exaggeration! ) for greater distances than you would ever do in the UK. Cape Town to Namibia, up the eat coast of SA - Mocambique etc, etc. This is a non-issue!
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Old 25 September 2003, 03:46   #13
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Up and locked then seems to be the answer...thank you
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Old 25 September 2003, 03:50   #14
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I wouldn't worry about the transom either - towing can't put as much strain on it it as the engine re-entering the water with however many horse power trying to push the engine under the boat!

For the record - up and locked!
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Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 25 September 2003, 04:05   #15
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10 hour round trip

I tow my Ribs all the time frequently doing a 5 hour trip to or from the south coast to Manchester.

Engine up all the way then slightly down onto the lock but maintaining the pressure on the PTT hydrolic system.

Turn the steering all the way to starboard and tie off the wheel / tiller so theat the engine cannot move from side to side.

If able as I am, cut a piece of wood long enough to run from the trailer cross member to the engine and wedge this in and tie off accordingly.

I tow at a steady 75 with the cruise control on. (Usually tow late at night when it's dead quiet on the motorway) Legal or not....5 hours is a long way at 50.

Stop every once and a while to check the rig.
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Old 25 September 2003, 05:11   #16
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I tow half up with a 4x4 inserted and held in place by nipping up with the trim motor. recently towed it 1400 miles over two weeks like that with no problems. seems to suit the Mariner. I also tie up the steering wheel.
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Old 25 September 2003, 08:37   #17
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We have towed to west France for several years and always have the engine mostly down and resting on a block or similar. With the engine right up the skeg sticks out much further and is more likely to hit or be hit by other things. A piece of tubing or 2X2 wood is usually about right - you just lift the engine up (on power trim if fitted), put the block across between the engine and the bracket just above the reverse lock, then lower it onto the block. Many engines have hook shaped engine brackets which the block sits snugly on. I usually tie it down solid, this also stops left-right movement. It also lets you tie the lights on across the engine if like me you dont have trailer-extending lights.
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Old 25 September 2003, 12:26   #18
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All the Way UP

I only have 8" wheels on my road trailer, so I have no choice - if it's not fully up, it's too low! Outfit is Narwhal 4m with a Force 40 PTT, and all I do is use trim to lift her all the way up, then turn steering to full lock starboard. She doesn't budge from there, even after a 3.5 hr tow at 50 - 60mph.
When I first bought her, I thought 'Gotta put bigger wheels on that trailer' but the little wheels means she sits real low on the trailer, and launching/recovering is a one man operation - an easy one at that!
So I'll stick to what I know works for me - All the Way Up!
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Old 25 September 2003, 12:29   #19
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Sounds good to me
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Old 25 September 2003, 13:43   #20
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Yup, well, I'll continue to tow with the engine fully up, but rested down on the stops.

On the steering note, a couple of people have said in this thread that they put the engine to full lock, and tie the steering wheel.....
When I picked the boat up from Hull, the engine was straight, and to be honest I didn't even thing about this, since the thing is quite solid when central due to the hydraulics keeping it that way.
Even with the hydraulics, do people turn the engine still to full lock?
Obviously with the 4-stroke, there is oil in the sump.... I have to wonder that whether leaving it on one side or another could leave one side of the engine covered in oil and the other not, or oil could go somewhere it shouldn't - I haven't a clue
Any thoughts?

-Alex
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