Go Back   RIBnet Forums > RIB talk > Engines & props
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 18 August 2005, 12:29   #1
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: I.O.W/Switzerland
Boat name: HotShot
Make: shakey
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90hp Tohatsu TLDI
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,555
Engine Mounting...tips please!

Will soon be mounting my engine on my RIB. Just wanted to make sure there aren't any issues I may encounter along the way. We have made a template to get the exact hole positions and fabricated a marine ply plate to put between the transom and engine saddle. I have choosen to keep the engine in the middle rather than offsetting it and will have it at the recommended height when on its upper mounting holes (so I can move it up if I want to in the future).

I was thinking of gluing some left over hypalon from my tube fitting over the top of the transom to give it a little padding...good idea or not? I don't see what I would have to loose.

Any tips etc on fitting engines would be appreciated.

Cheers

Tim
__________________
slimtim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18 August 2005, 15:10   #2
Member
 
Pete7's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
Tim, don't understand what the marine ply is going to do for you. Also what happens if you need to lower the engine one hole because it cavitates to much in the corners ?

Otherwise okay, spare hyperlon piece should be okay, have a chat with MeMe about colour coordinating accessories and cushions

Pete
__________________
Pete7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18 August 2005, 15:25   #3
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Nutbourne
Boat name: Renegade
Make: Porter
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140 Tohatsu
MMSI: 235022904
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,195
Tim

I would put the big bit at the top and the little spinny bit at the bottom.

Didn't they teach you anything at S'ampton Uni?

As Pete says, wots the ply for? Or is that just the template for drilling the holes.
__________________
Mark H
"A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools" Douglas Adams
Mark Halliday is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18 August 2005, 16:44   #4
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Pwllheli-North Wales
Boat name: V-ONE
Make: Highfield
Length: 8m +
Engine: Honda 250hp
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,367
Tim

I have rigged 2 Shaky 520's, the engine wants to be slap bang in the middle (no offset) and very low as the hull was designed to be a longer boat, you may need fins on the engine to stop cavitation with a light engine, the 520 seems to be very stern light, and handeled better with the four stroke.

Drop me a line if you need any advice.
__________________
www.waterwise-marine.co.uk
Jono Garton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18 August 2005, 17:24   #5
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: I.O.W/Switzerland
Boat name: HotShot
Make: shakey
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90hp Tohatsu TLDI
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,555
Thanks for the advice.

We made the plywood pad as the tohatsu manual told us to...I wasn't convinced we needed it but I guess it will protect my shiney gelcoat on the transom! It will also be used as a template.

The standard height to mount the engine is with the cavitation plate 10-15mm below the bottom of the boat. This should be enough shouldn't it?

Tim
__________________
slimtim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18 August 2005, 19:32   #6
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Pwllheli-North Wales
Boat name: V-ONE
Make: Highfield
Length: 8m +
Engine: Honda 250hp
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,367
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimtim
The standard height to mount the engine is with the cavitation plate 10-15mm below the bottom of the boat. This should be enough shouldn't it?
Will be fine for the shaky
__________________
www.waterwise-marine.co.uk
Jono Garton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18 August 2005, 20:48   #7
Member
 
Nasher's Avatar
 
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,828
Tim

The plywood pad will be a pain to keep re-varnishing every year to keep it from looking shabby.

My slant on the situation is that outboards should be mounted directly to the transom. Anything you introduce that can go soft and allow any flexing of the saddle can cause the casting to fracture.

Nasher
__________________
Nasher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18 August 2005, 21:24   #8
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: I.O.W/Switzerland
Boat name: HotShot
Make: shakey
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90hp Tohatsu TLDI
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,555
hhmmm, good point. I was going to epoxy it though so I guess it will last a little longer than varnish.

Tim
__________________
slimtim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18 August 2005, 21:47   #9
Member
 
Hightower's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
Be better with a stainless spreader plate, but direct to the transom for me and you'll never see any damage caused by the installation to the gel coat as it'll be under the bracket. Don't worry too much Tim, if you do develop little stress cracks the stainless route can be done later.

Mines had twins and at least 3 other outboards on the back Tim
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2.jpg
Views:	287
Size:	191.5 KB
ID:	13840  
__________________
Hightower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 April 2010, 09:00   #10
Member
 
phillnjack's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: slough
Boat name: not named yet
Make: Orkney Dory 4 metre
Length: 4m +
Engine: outboard evinrude 60
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 80
Some very good advice here.
would never of thought about the ply going soft and causing stress to the brackets



phill
__________________
phillnjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 April 2010, 10:33   #11
Member
 
Nasher's Avatar
 
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,828
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
Some very good advice here.the ply going soft and causing stress to the brackets
That's the beauty of this forum, others can learn from those that had learnt the hard way.

Nasher.
__________________
Nasher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 April 2010, 12:08   #12
Member
 
phillnjack's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: slough
Boat name: not named yet
Make: Orkney Dory 4 metre
Length: 4m +
Engine: outboard evinrude 60
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 80
This forum is fantastic.

Its good for newbies and those who have been boating for ages.

Im forever seeing stuff that i had either forgotten ,or never even thought about.
And so many good saftey aspecs

Brilliant forum



phill
__________________
phillnjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 April 2010, 18:35   #13
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset & Hants
Boat name: Streaker/Orange
Make: Avon/Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50Yam/25 Mariner
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,551
I'm confused about the ply going soft bit . BHG seem to rig all the Yamaha/avon combos with ply between the engine & boat (including mine) , and nearly all sibes have ply ( with no gel) transoms.

Does the ply in these cases take some of the shock away due to 'sqidgeniess' I wonder ?

The bigger boat is mounted with nothing as with most 'bigger' ribs/engines I see?

The question I guess - does size matter ?
__________________
PeterM is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 05:21.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.