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Old 05 January 2008, 17:58   #11
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What Cookee said. Gorilla 3 are the strongest, but he does test things to destruction. Mention his name to stainless marine and they roll their eyes!
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Old 07 January 2008, 08:24   #12
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Originally Posted by Nos4r2 View Post
If you're using a jackplate, is there a noticeable difference in the way using the trim affects the handling to not having a jackplate?
Actually raising the engine gives the boat less bow lift making the boat run flatter as the thrust is more in line with the keel than when it's down.

The trim has pretty much the same effect up or down.

Matt is right - I am partly responsible for the short life of the Gorilla 2, and the design of the Gorilla 3!
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When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 07 January 2008, 17:36   #13
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The site of stainless only show the gorilla II. Whats different on the Gorilla III?
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Old 07 January 2008, 18:02   #14
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The site of stainless only show the gorilla II. Whats different on the Gorilla III?
Yup that's the one I broke / trashed / wrecked in Cardiff Bay in no time flat - the Gorilla III is a cross between the original and the II - it has mirror image halves that slot together without any bolts making it very strong. I have broken enough other types to know which is the toughest!
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Old 07 January 2008, 18:13   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookee View Post
Actually raising the engine gives the boat less bow lift making the boat run flatter as the thrust is more in line with the keel than when it's down.

So, (I guess you're the wrong person to ask about fuel economy! ) does it follow that fuel usage drops when the engine is raised or is any difference in economy so negligible as to be unnoticeable?
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Old 07 January 2008, 18:23   #16
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I also considering a jack plate for performance and to set the engine back to create more space at the mirror but is it creating a lot more stress on the mirror?
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Old 08 January 2008, 08:06   #17
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So, (I guess you're the wrong person to ask about fuel economy! ) does it follow that fuel usage drops when the engine is raised or is any difference in economy so negligible as to be unnoticeable?
In theory the fuel useage would only decrease if you used the decrease in drag to keep the same speed and throttled back a little - as you can imagine it's not an area that I have any practical experience in, but the high cost of the lifter and the small savings would not make it an economical excercise. If you want to save fuel go slower!

Bertus - If I assume you mean transom instead of mirror, then it would add the weight of the bracket to that of the engine, so you must find out if the hull will cope with the extra weight. The extra stress from moving the engine back would be small - best thing would be to contact the manufacturer.
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Old 08 January 2008, 14:04   #18
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Cookee, transom is the correct word. In Holland they say mirror(spiegel) The boat is rated for a 120 hp max outboard but I spoke a fire brigade in Germany with the same Rib and a 150 hp Johnson and they had no problems with it.
But, yes But, I think the wood is a bit wet and I need a transom repair.
But before beginning with that would like to now what to do and what I want. and what is on the market.
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Old 09 January 2008, 04:12   #19
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lift

for a 300 Suzuki, and/or racing, I would just accept the Gorilla 3.
I used the Gorilla 2, which is perfect, but I added a point of Tig solder to avoid any chance to have the studs unscrew.

The big plus of Stainless Marine lift is that the motor is fixed by 8 studs - instead of 4 - to the plate, and the plate is fixed to the transom by 8 studs too .
Other jack plates have 4 in standard, so the stress is much better shared in SM.
Plus the studs are not screwed directly into the aluminium plate, but into stainless steel inserts - that is where I added the solder point for safety.

For less power and standard use, I would use the Cook-CMC - it is perfect - but there are a lot of other marks I didn't check.

Concerning the performance, it depends on the hull : I gained 8 knots on a 600 Prestige italian catamaran, just moving the 150hp Mercury motor from the "down" to the "near up".
I didn't check the fuel saving, but if one gains 8 knots with the same power, it is clearly more efficient.

Water pressure indicator is a must indeed ! I made it with a 35mph speedometer, larger than standard pressure ones.
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Old 18 March 2009, 07:32   #20
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I have fitted a power lift on my 8 metres double stepped rib and Evinrude etec 250 . i did not have flat sea to check the full speed but i gained 1,5 knots on 4000 rpm and 10% more economy.



The question is the following. I was expecting that by lifting the engine to decrease the drague of the engine leg and increase the speed. In reality by lifting the engine the boat becomes slower because it gets the stern more into the water. On the lowest position i got fantastic economy and speed.
Maybe on the top speed is different the characteristics?
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