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Old 20 August 2012, 11:25   #31
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Originally Posted by lockieboi View Post
Ok thanks, how should I check that's ok?
Visual inspection, utilizing a flashlight. Just make sure the pickup is in place, and that it goes to the bottom of the tank.
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Old 20 August 2012, 11:49   #32
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Check the pins in the electrical connectors. A long time ago a friend had a boat where the motor would suddenly cut out at full throttle. Eventually it was discovered that one of the pins in the connector from the remote control box was not fully pushed into place. At high rpms the vibration of the engine would cause the connection to be intermittent. To the engine it would seem as if someone turned the ignition switch off.

A bit of foil stuffed into the corresponding female pin solved the problem.
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Old 20 August 2012, 13:37   #33
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Check all the hose clamps on the fuel line. Make sure they are tight, even if they visually look so. This also happened to me...
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Old 20 August 2012, 14:01   #34
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Thanks for all the advice.

So many bloody things to check.

Spoke to whistable marine today who want 100 plus VAT plus parts to service it.

Is this a bit steep?

I just want this fault resolved and don't think I'm skilled enough to do it myself.
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Old 20 August 2012, 14:20   #35
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How old is that engine ? Used to have a 96 Evi 15 HP with same sypmtons, removed cylinder head, cleaned all internal crankcase and head water passages, placed a new well torqued head gasket + new spark plugs and bingo!! Still runing up to date.

Head gaskets are not eternal, with time and use they compress and hardens, when engine is hot lets small water particles pass into combustion chambers causing strange symptoms at speeds higher than idle, worsens between 3/4 to wot and even can shut engine down.

Nobody retorques head gasket when engine has passed break in period because a torque wrench is needed, this causes premature gasket wear due to salt water penetration & corrosion between crankcase and head walls losing perfect chamber seal as when engine was brand new.

If all related fuel, electrical, mechanical is working ok this is the inmediate part to check and change. Remenber outboards are not car that uses glycol for engine refrigeration. To get the idea...

Happy Boating
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Old 21 August 2012, 03:02   #36
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It's a 1999.

Think I'm going to take it to a professional and get it looked at.

Thanks for all the help.
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Old 21 August 2012, 12:41   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lockieboi View Post
It's a 1999.

Think I'm going to take it to a professional and get it looked at.

Thanks for all the help.
Post whatever is found, just for the record...

Happy Boating
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Old 04 September 2012, 17:48   #38
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Got the OB back today.

Fuel line checked all the way to the carb and carb cleaned.

Idles a lot better now.

Will see if the fault has cleared the weekend.

Thanks for all the advice.
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Old 04 September 2012, 18:09   #39
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Just an idea,
Your fouling of the prop will have created a mess. All sorts of vacuum issues with stalling and sucking shit it under higher pressure than it should be. You'll be hoovering up all sorts of shit from plenums, fuels bowls etc., esp. if it's a forced stall and not an powerhead one (fuel starvation or electro).
Probably has been said but I read the first and last page only, having experienced this myself ( professionally and on hols ), I'd clean out all your fuel reservoirs. Floats, filters and tanks. It only takes one paint flake to hide and cause hell Taliban style and you're mullered.
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Old 08 September 2012, 16:34   #40
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Well after paying out for this to be fixed it still is not.

Took the boat out for a run earlier and after about 2 mins at WOT it died.

In the process of uploading some videos to YouTube so will put links to them on hear soon.
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