e-tec with reduced power

[SteveHall]

I have a 2007 etec 175 and last season after say 5 minutes of idling or slow speed I would get the check engine light on the tacho and reduced power. Knock it off and back on then a blast at higher revs and all was fine. I changed the impellor as I thought this could be the cause as it was over heating and the last run of the season all was fine - but I didn't do much slow speed work.

Over winter I have removed the old tacho and installed a N2k network and now have the information on my HDS units.

At the weekend I got her back out of storage and ran her up in a tank - after 5 minutes of idle I got alarms - Low Voltage, Reduced Power, Check Engine.

The voltage on the HDS shows 12V when ticking over, and goes up to 14 when revving.

Any idea's - I am thinking battery's as they are an unknown age - 2007 perhaps if not older? I hope its not the EMM....

I had the stereo on all weekend while working and I didn't see a drop in voltage - but perhaps the battery's don't have the grunt any more?

I also had an issue with the trim on my last trip could this be linked as well- http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/evinrud...ues-59044.html

[Aries]

Had a low voltage alarm on mine - turned out to be a few of the magnets on the inside of the flywheel had come off.

I also had an injector intermittently fail, which caused rough running and loss of power.

All sorted now so hopefully good for the new season.

[Ferdi]

do you have no Evinrude tach any more ?
Only the HDS with NMEA2000 data from engine ?
You need minimum 1 instrument from Evinrude to show error messages.

I would suggest Evinrude Diag Software + calble and read the EMM, an error is stored there and you can easily see whats wrong.
If you do not have it or are not familiar with PCs, your dealer can read out EMM with EVDiag.

Inside your motor, on the EMM are 4 red lights, burning and blinking of these lights in specific order also can give you some hints about an error and which one occured.
http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post/...system-5169120


PS: I had the same error on an Lowrance with NMEA2000 - Low Voltage, Reduced Power, Check Engine message, and it was an overheat warning in reality.

[Aries]

Piccy of flywheel

[SteveHall]

Originally Posted by Ferdi

do you have no Evinrude tach any more ?
Only the HDS with NMEA2000 data from engine ?
You need minimum 1 instrument from Evinrude to show error messages.
.

Hi Ferdi, I have done plenty of research and everything pointed to just using N2K? My old gauges were faulty so rather than replace them with old I have gone down the HDS route, and eventually want to add an ICommand gauge.

I have EVDiag - but haven't connected it up this weekend as I didn't have it on me, I have these historical faults...

88 | 1 | 158 | Exhaust Pressure BELOW Expected Range

61 | 4 | 210 | Fuel Injector Circuit #1 SHORTED

17 | 8 | 435 | 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range

97 | 2 | 424 | Intermittent Switched (B+) Detected

25 | 2 | 436 | EMM Temperature ABOVE Range

11 | 3 | 460 | Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Out Of Idle Range

21 | 2 | 460 | Winterization Activated


I replaced the impellor at 436 and its been fine for the other 30 hours..

I see the 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range but haven't been able to resolve that - could that be the cause?

Steve

[SteveHall]

Originally Posted by Aries

Piccy of flywheel

If you don't mind me asking - how much was this fix?

Did you have to replace the flywheel and stator?

[Ferdi]

Steve,

NMEA2000 data from engine are fine, but you will need minimum 1 extra gauge from Evinrude, eg. System Check tach oder an iCommand one.
Even Lowrance 400 gauge is the same as an iCommand one, they differ in internal SW.
Lowrance one does not show all errors when they occur.

There are many reasons for safe mode, yes, could be low voltage of inner circle, but also could be TPS out of range, overheating .... and other reasons.
Without diag -read you will never know or be sure.

[Aries]

Originally Posted by SteveHall

If you don't mind me asking - how much was this fix?

Did you have to replace the flywheel and stator?

Flywheel was shot. Stator was ok, but I did replace it anyway. Can't remember how much it all was - blank that stuff from my mind. Will have a look tonight. Didn't take long, but you need a gizmo to undo the flywheel and tighten it up again.

[SteveHall]

Aries - Cheers, Did you do the fix yourself then I take it? Who supplied the parts? If you could PM me a rough estimate of cost that would be brill - depending on the cost it will push me over the edge, or stop me from crying.

Ferdi - I am confused why and this is the first I have seen this - on every forum I cant seem to see this? My HDS gave more information when the alarm happened that my old tacho ever did. I do plan to add a ICommand when money is available.

isn't my TPS out of range because of starting with the throttle full ahead to start winterisation.. When running and the alarm occurred the engine temp was about 60degress according to the HDS.

I take on what you say about not having the diag -read - but the symptoms are identical to before - when I assumed it was overheat, and I actually did have an over heat.

I will connect it to ev-diag tonight but I am sure it will be the same 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range

[Aries]

Call Paul at South Coast Outboards - 01202 496630

I'm sure he wouldn't mind you calling him to explain your symptoms (even though you are miles away). He knew what was up with mine straight away - and I'm pretty sure when he plugged the diagnostic in, it was obvious the voltage generation was way down.

I'm no engineer, so apologies if I'm talking crap - but he is, so better chatting to him.

[SteveHall]

Cheers mate - I will connect the diag up and see what its generating.

Not a big fan of harassing people, especially if he is miles away and may not get the business...

[Aries]

"Aries - Cheers, Did you do the fix yourself then I take it? Who supplied the parts? If you could PM me a rough estimate of cost that would be brill - depending on the cost it will push me over the edge, or stop me from crying."

It's to do with boats.....of course it was f***** expensive!

Not as expensive as the injector though...

[SteveHall]

Originally Posted by Aries

"
It's to do with boats.....of course it was f***** expensive!

Just looking for a nice big bridge to fling myself off!

I am have had similar problems with my LR - that's needed loads recently...

Anyone know - other than the alarm, having to restart it - what other damage could it be causing? I don't want to take down the EMM

[Aries]

Just checked the engine history log (Paul had sent that through to me via email) and the fault associated with the flywheel/voltage problem was:

"17 | 16 | 303 | 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range"

first number is fault number
second number is times it happened
last number is engine hours

[SteveHall]

Originally Posted by Aries

"17 | 16 | 303 | 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range"

SNAP!

"17 | 8 | 435 | 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range"

Do you do a lot of slow speed stuff? How long did you have the fault?

I've had mine do it for ages yet only happened 8 times, but mine only happens when its either at slow speed or left at idle for 10 mins or so...

[Chris]

Hi Steve

12 volts at tick over is low, my 150 used to stick at 13.8v as soon as it was started whatever the RPMs.

Re your fault codes, ignoring the early ones....


17 | 8 | 435 | 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range
If its not the stator then it probably does mean a new EMM.... However don't top yourself quite yet. Get all the battery cables and connections checked and clean away any signs of corrosion, also open up all the deutsche connectors and make sure they are all clean and dry (use a little dielectric grease before connecting them back up).

Rule out all the easy (cheap) stuff then move onto EMMs, stators etc.

97 | 2 | 424 | Intermittent Switched (B+) Detected
Common, ignore.

25 | 2 | 436 | EMM Temperature ABOVE Range
Do you remember why this happened ? was their a blockage.... You may want to check how hot it actually got. There is a cooling pipe that carries water through the EMM, this can sometimes get blocked so it may be worth checking this.

11 | 3 | 460 | Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Out Of Idle Range
This will cause issues and could mean you are not getting full throttle, also if its really out then engine won't rev just sits at idle. If you have the software and are confident then this it's easy enough to re-calibrate the TPS.

[SteveHall]

Originally Posted by Chris

17 | 8 | 435 | 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range
If its not the stator then it probably does mean a new EMM.... However don't top yourself quite yet. Get all the battery cables and connections checked and clean away any signs of corrosion, also open up all the deutsche connectors and make sure they are all clean and dry (use a little dielectric grease before connecting them back up).

Rule out all the easy (cheap) stuff then move onto EMMs, stators etc.

Most of my problems all started when my faulty Lowrance 3500c drained the batteries - my fault as I didn't turn the battery isolator off. All contacts have been checked and all look OK. Today I have ordered some new batteries as I thought that would be the fix (I do have a battery switch so may look at replacing that as well) - When they arrive I will connect them up and get the multimeter readings when the motor is running - The more I have read I am starting to doubt its battery related, and knowing my luck I think it will be the stator, flywheel and EMM.

Originally Posted by Chris

97 | 2 | 424 | Intermittent Switched (B+) Detected
Common, ignore.

Happy with that one

Originally Posted by Chris

25 | 2 | 436 | EMM Temperature ABOVE Range
Do you remember why this happened ? was their a blockage.... You may want to check how hot it actually got. There is a cooling pipe that carries water through the EMM, this can sometimes get blocked so it may be worth checking this.

This was a hot summers day this August, and I did some slow speed stuff just in tick over for about an hour, and it turned out my impeller was knackered so it wasn't getting the water pressure - I knew in the back of my mind it was due to be replaced but I hadn't got round to it - and the weather was amazing - my own stupid fault. When it went into alarm I thought it was the 'normal' alarm I have been experiencing so I turned it off but it wouldn't restart (so I knew it was something more) I changed them impeller and checked all the pipes to the EMM and they all looked fine, my next trip out with the new impellor the boat was fine - It has logged a max temp of 96.6

Originally Posted by Chris

11 | 3 | 460 | Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Out Of Idle Range
This will cause issues and could mean you are not getting full throttle, also if it really out then engine wont rev just sits at idle. If you have the software and are confident then this its easy enough to re-calibrate the TPS.

I am sure this is the winterisation process, or me attempting to complete it - as you start it with the throttle full ahead.

The more I think about it, I have three problems that could be linked..

Firstly - I have this alarm with low voltage.

Secondly - I have an issue with the key switch if I turn this hard and all the way till it stops the boat wont start, no sounds or nothing but the VHF goes off and the voltage drops to 8V, if I turn it gently the boat will fire to life - voltage still drops but starts up no issues. This seemed to start a few days after the boat had a lot of breaking waves over the console when left in a marina over night. I can reproduce this 100% - but again haven't yet got round to ordering a replacement as I find the parts hard to get over here.
http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/evinrud...tor-51986.html

Finally - On my last run of the season when at WOT using the trim caused the engine to 'missfire' or 'bog down' - as soon as the trim button was released it returned to normal, instantly, and only ever did this at WOT, anything from 0-99% throttle would trim normally, and nothing was logged on ev-diag.
http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/evinrud...ues-59044.html

[Aries]

Yeah it sounds very similar. Slow speed stuff every trip as you have to go at 4 knots up the river and out of the harbor - 30 mins each way. It was intermittent as well.

[Chris]

Hi Steve, with the trim switch causing problems I would really look at your electrical connections between the battery and the engine, also that ignition switch could be causing problems so replace that before anything else.

E-tecs do funny things if they don't have really good battery cables and strong batteries. So I would start there and work your way through the system.

[SteveHall]

Cheers Chris, I am happy if its just batteries and a ignition switch - I am hoping its this anyway.

The fact that turning it over gives a drop to 8V for the batteries - I think they are shot.

I will order up a new key switch as well - gulp!