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Old 03 March 2014, 09:07   #11
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Cheers mate - I will connect the diag up and see what its generating.

Not a big fan of harassing people, especially if he is miles away and may not get the business...
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Old 03 March 2014, 09:10   #12
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"Aries - Cheers, Did you do the fix yourself then I take it? Who supplied the parts? If you could PM me a rough estimate of cost that would be brill - depending on the cost it will push me over the edge, or stop me from crying."

It's to do with boats.....of course it was f***** expensive!

Not as expensive as the injector though...
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Old 03 March 2014, 09:19   #13
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"
It's to do with boats.....of course it was f***** expensive!
Just looking for a nice big bridge to fling myself off!

I am have had similar problems with my LR - that's needed loads recently...

Anyone know - other than the alarm, having to restart it - what other damage could it be causing? I don't want to take down the EMM
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Old 03 March 2014, 09:33   #14
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Just checked the engine history log (Paul had sent that through to me via email) and the fault associated with the flywheel/voltage problem was:

"17 | 16 | 303 | 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range"

first number is fault number
second number is times it happened
last number is engine hours
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Old 03 March 2014, 09:40   #15
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"17 | 16 | 303 | 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range"
SNAP!

"17 | 8 | 435 | 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range"

Do you do a lot of slow speed stuff? How long did you have the fault?

I've had mine do it for ages yet only happened 8 times, but mine only happens when its either at slow speed or left at idle for 10 mins or so...
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Old 03 March 2014, 10:00   #16
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Hi Steve

12 volts at tick over is low, my 150 used to stick at 13.8v as soon as it was started whatever the RPMs.

Re your fault codes, ignoring the early ones....


17 | 8 | 435 | 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range
If its not the stator then it probably does mean a new EMM.... However don't top yourself quite yet. Get all the battery cables and connections checked and clean away any signs of corrosion, also open up all the deutsche connectors and make sure they are all clean and dry (use a little dielectric grease before connecting them back up).

Rule out all the easy (cheap) stuff then move onto EMMs, stators etc.

97 | 2 | 424 | Intermittent Switched (B+) Detected
Common, ignore.

25 | 2 | 436 | EMM Temperature ABOVE Range
Do you remember why this happened ? was their a blockage.... You may want to check how hot it actually got. There is a cooling pipe that carries water through the EMM, this can sometimes get blocked so it may be worth checking this.

11 | 3 | 460 | Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Out Of Idle Range
This will cause issues and could mean you are not getting full throttle, also if its really out then engine won't rev just sits at idle. If you have the software and are confident then this it's easy enough to re-calibrate the TPS.
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Old 03 March 2014, 10:27   #17
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Quote:
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17 | 8 | 435 | 55 Volt Circuit BELOW Range
If its not the stator then it probably does mean a new EMM.... However don't top yourself quite yet. Get all the battery cables and connections checked and clean away any signs of corrosion, also open up all the deutsche connectors and make sure they are all clean and dry (use a little dielectric grease before connecting them back up).

Rule out all the easy (cheap) stuff then move onto EMMs, stators etc.
Most of my problems all started when my faulty Lowrance 3500c drained the batteries - my fault as I didn't turn the battery isolator off. All contacts have been checked and all look OK. Today I have ordered some new batteries as I thought that would be the fix (I do have a battery switch so may look at replacing that as well) - When they arrive I will connect them up and get the multimeter readings when the motor is running - The more I have read I am starting to doubt its battery related, and knowing my luck I think it will be the stator, flywheel and EMM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris View Post
97 | 2 | 424 | Intermittent Switched (B+) Detected
Common, ignore.
Happy with that one

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris View Post
25 | 2 | 436 | EMM Temperature ABOVE Range
Do you remember why this happened ? was their a blockage.... You may want to check how hot it actually got. There is a cooling pipe that carries water through the EMM, this can sometimes get blocked so it may be worth checking this.
This was a hot summers day this August, and I did some slow speed stuff just in tick over for about an hour, and it turned out my impeller was knackered so it wasn't getting the water pressure - I knew in the back of my mind it was due to be replaced but I hadn't got round to it - and the weather was amazing - my own stupid fault. When it went into alarm I thought it was the 'normal' alarm I have been experiencing so I turned it off but it wouldn't restart (so I knew it was something more) I changed them impeller and checked all the pipes to the EMM and they all looked fine, my next trip out with the new impellor the boat was fine - It has logged a max temp of 96.6

Quote:
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11 | 3 | 460 | Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Out Of Idle Range
This will cause issues and could mean you are not getting full throttle, also if it really out then engine wont rev just sits at idle. If you have the software and are confident then this its easy enough to re-calibrate the TPS.
I am sure this is the winterisation process, or me attempting to complete it - as you start it with the throttle full ahead.

The more I think about it, I have three problems that could be linked..

Firstly - I have this alarm with low voltage.

Secondly - I have an issue with the key switch if I turn this hard and all the way till it stops the boat wont start, no sounds or nothing but the VHF goes off and the voltage drops to 8V, if I turn it gently the boat will fire to life - voltage still drops but starts up no issues. This seemed to start a few days after the boat had a lot of breaking waves over the console when left in a marina over night. I can reproduce this 100% - but again haven't yet got round to ordering a replacement as I find the parts hard to get over here.
Evinrude etec & problem when I try and start the motor

Finally - On my last run of the season when at WOT using the trim caused the engine to 'missfire' or 'bog down' - as soon as the trim button was released it returned to normal, instantly, and only ever did this at WOT, anything from 0-99% throttle would trim normally, and nothing was logged on ev-diag.
Evinrude e-tec issues...
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Old 03 March 2014, 10:30   #18
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Yeah it sounds very similar. Slow speed stuff every trip as you have to go at 4 knots up the river and out of the harbor - 30 mins each way. It was intermittent as well.
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Old 03 March 2014, 10:31   #19
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Hi Steve, with the trim switch causing problems I would really look at your electrical connections between the battery and the engine, also that ignition switch could be causing problems so replace that before anything else.

E-tecs do funny things if they don't have really good battery cables and strong batteries. So I would start there and work your way through the system.
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Old 03 March 2014, 10:37   #20
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Cheers Chris, I am happy if its just batteries and a ignition switch - I am hoping its this anyway.

The fact that turning it over gives a drop to 8V for the batteries - I think they are shot.

I will order up a new key switch as well - gulp!
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