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Old 13 August 2012, 19:33   #11
Dhf
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Mate of mine made a big mistake when new to powerfull outboards, he purchased a real good second hand tiller 25hp yam, eager as a beaver to get out, thought tightening them hand clamps would do,,,, well they did for 5 min then after 20secs on the plane the outboard jumped off, ripping the tiller out of his hand and the motor literally jumped about 4ft out the water, then span around a few secs on the surface before sinking, I was watching from the shore and it looked crazy, It was lucky the dory type hull continued planning before the motor landed.
Not saying bolts are needed with smaller OB's though, my 4hp aux is just clamped.
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Old 13 August 2012, 20:15   #12
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In total contrast to the above, i have used a 25 on clamps only for years. It did however have the lipped clamp plate as per poly's post and had the clamp screws lashed every time.
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Old 14 August 2012, 03:09   #13
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Make sure that what your clamping it too is suitable. The previous owner of my fishing boat fitted a stainless plate, whilst it looks the part its also very slippy as my engine made a bid for freedom the other day.
Its only a 6hp but I'll be sticking a couple of bolts through anyway!
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Old 14 August 2012, 03:26   #14
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Rather than cable ties I use a combination padlock, dual purpose...

My Avon has a moulded fixing plate with a lip around the edge which is a good idea.
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Old 14 August 2012, 03:39   #15
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I really would not bother bolting on a 15 onto a leisure SIB (except maybe for security reasons).

As for the clamps failing - hard to imagine how they would not hold it 100% securely - someone mentioned their's worked loose after a couple of days extreme use - this is user error really, you should be checking and re-tightening (if necessary) them all the time. I just reach down and check each one every now and again while driving the boat. And as others have said you must install a tether from the engine carrying handle to the transom plate ring.

If you do decide to drill then the Honwaves use an encased wooden transom so you would need to use a marine sealent, good practise regardless.
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Old 14 August 2012, 05:55   #16
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Just to add, (not sure - I think Honwave have a plastic transom plate inside) but on the Zodiac there is a serrated cast plate on the inside and a softish plywood plate screwed to the outside of the transom - this allows the rear of the outboard bracket to bite into the wood which helps a little I guess...
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Old 14 August 2012, 06:27   #17
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Just to throw something else into the mix - whilst cable tying or lashing or padlocking the clamp ends together will prevent them unwinding it won't allow for any compression of the transom after the motor is first fitted.

Check the clamps for tightness each time the boat is used - and possibly during the day also.
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Old 14 August 2012, 07:08   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribtecer View Post
I have a rope for my 9.8 Tohatsu with a stainless clip on the end fixed to the transom just in case.

But I have wondered about what damage it would do with a spinning prop if it came loose.

Toby
Seen it happen twice, engine falls to bottom off rope and stalls out. As long as you don't have a gorilla at the helm with a strong enough grip to hold the surprise weight of the engine.
If you do, the engine stalls out with the gorilla pulled to the shoulder in the water over the transom.
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Old 14 August 2012, 19:00   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy
Make sure that what your clamping it too is suitable. The previous owner of my fishing boat fitted a stainless plate, whilst it looks the part its also very slippy as my engine made a bid for freedom the other day.
Its only a 6hp but I'll be sticking a couple of bolts through anyway!
Yep, been there too...

Suffice to say good old wire rope steering doesn't let it fall too far, but i can assure you it won't stall at WOT...

Cast plate with a lip. Much less pain in the long term.
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Old 15 August 2012, 07:31   #20
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What length of tether is best, short to stop it going to far, or long to let it get far away from the boat before it stops moving?
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