Originally Posted by IanH
If I understand your comment correctly, do I take it that if there is no load then a rectifier/regulator would fail?
affirmative but if you set it up so you can unplug it from the AC supply you won't have the problem or as Nos said ensure you put a battery in the circuit
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
That's a Superdream unit Dabheid.
Check your stats for the AC voltage of the outboard alternator. If it's over 25v, don't use it-Honda Superdream rec/reg units don't like it. the Superdream was around 25v max from the alternator.
Have a chat to Electrex-they'll be able to send you the right unit for the job-or alternatively the XJ900 Yam one will do nicely-I've been running one on my ancient GS850 for 15 years and the alternator chucks out 75v on that before the rec/reg.
You'll need to check the wiring codes on it though as the 3 AC wires on the XJ unit have different colour codes for no apparent reason. Red and black are obvious though-no green earth wire.
close Nos but no cigar it's actaully a CM450 unit - the beefiest one I could find although the Superdream one was in second place. The pictured one is 35A rated - I think the SD one is under 30 but would have done OK too I'm sure. The circuit is fused at 30A so I wanted to ensure the fuse would go before the RR melted (again!)
Thanks for the headsup on the AC peak V. Yamaha rate the output at 18V at 3,500rpm although mine measured about 20 so I think still OK for this unit.
look great but your Electrex 7wire XJ unit would beat me to wire with an additional brown wire in the mix - I'm still figuring out the black wire on my 6 wire unit!
Regarding the wiring of the AC - I tried to get across that it doesn't matter even though it took a while to figure it out. Yamaha and Mercury all colour code their AC wires and/or key their connection to the RR. The only reason I've found that might make this a good idea is to avoid having a defective RR short a stator coil and then get plugged into a different coil and kill that too. I can see or find no electrical reason to differentiate them and yes I did do coloured Sine wave drawings to try get my head round it!
Originally Posted by simsy
A modest sized Electrolytic capacitor permanently connected directly to the RR’s output may help. The size would be sufficient to smooth out any surges caused by flaky isolator switch etc., but not so big as to hold significant charge that could start a fire or be considered a battery. Maybe around 3300uF and 35 volt. (£5) This will help in stopping RR failures.
Make sure you wire it right way round though
I think this is similar to the protected battery selector switches - bought one after someone accidentally knocked off the isolator and killed my mariner RR a couple of years back - never tested it though one replacement was enough! My current
set-up is to use battery quick connects - one less switch to go wrong