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Old 22 December 2013, 15:00   #51
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See that's what it's all about "Cooperation" the local lads get to work on the system and we give you the opportunity to make dure your plant is operating to your liking "Win Win" yeah..?
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Old 22 December 2013, 15:04   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bedajim View Post
Is your transfer pump a gear or closed impeller pump as it may not like pumping 20 years of settlement out of the bottom of the tank
I'd go with a diaphragm pump 3/4" or 1" with oil resistant seals etc to empty the tanks and pass through your 1st stage filtration.
I think it's what they call a "vane pump", so I'm guessing that's Impeller?

I could hook up the airline to a pipe and stir the bejaysus out of it for a while first - break up the lumps....
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Old 22 December 2013, 15:07   #53
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and we give you the opportunity to make dure your plant is operating to your liking
Hey - that's EXACTLY what the feckers said!

You must be issued with ROE cards...
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Old 22 December 2013, 15:09   #54
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Hey - that's EXACTLY what the feckers said!

You must be issued with ROE cards...
Did you check your next bill - there was probably a "standby generator test fee" on it!
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Old 22 December 2013, 15:44   #55
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Did you check your next bill - there was probably a "standby generator test fee" on it!
You been watching too much Dr Who again Poly?
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Old 23 December 2013, 11:28   #56
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Quote:
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I think it's what they call a "vane pump", so I'm guessing that's Impeller?
Sort of. Over here "vane pumps" have metal bars which slide out from a central metal hub and grab the fuel. As far as I can tell you have the same names for these.
http://www.michael-smith-engineers.c...pumpmoving.gif

So a bit of a cross between a flexible impeller type and gear pump. Your tank would need to be beyond skanky for the pump to break down.

Fun discussion here with some good smackdown
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Old 23 December 2013, 11:37   #57
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I've opened this pump before to check the condition. It has a mesh prefilter and yes, brass vanes a little like a turbine. I'm getting closer to a solution thanks to this thread.
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Old 23 December 2013, 11:44   #58
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Willk, you could let your genny polish your fuel. More about that in a minute...

I store my boat diesel in a 1200lt tank with no bottom drain and I lift the fuel out using a vane type transfer pump. Even after the fuel sitting for a long time (years) the sediment comes out easily via the pump. Obviously I can't guarantee this in your case but you may not have as big a problem as you might imagine. I simply use a copper pipe as the dip pipe and gently place it until it touches the bottom of the tank. The copper pipe has a 'V' notched out of the bottom end to allow the fuel, or crud, into it. Once the fuel is flowing clean I leave it. Plainly this doesn't clean your fuel or scrub your tank but it saves you clogging umpteen filters unnecessarily.

Ok, the next step. Since your genny appears to be running fine the fuel must be at least reasonable so I suggest the following based on that. You can polish your fuel by simply running the engine and allowing the fuel which returns to the tank to pass back to the main storage tank rather than the day tank. The return may not be on the engine side of the engine filters so if not it will need to pass through a filter on its return path to the tank, then the returning fuel will be cleaned reasonably. If you wish, it wouldn't be difficult, nor give you much down time, to install an extra large filter to the engine fuel line for cleaning purposes. I would guess that running your genny under no load won't use an excessive amount of fuel and therefore be cost prohibitive. Also, you will have the advantage that while your genny is running during an emergency, it will be cleaning it's own fuel.

Just a thought for you.
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Old 23 December 2013, 12:04   #59
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Thanks JW. There are a few useful ideas in there!

I should probably stick an extra RACOR turbine stylie filter on the system where the genny feed line leave the daytank. If I put a 30 micron filter on it, it would catch any crud or water before it hits the "lorry" filters on the genny. They work well (and I keep spares) but you can't see water building up. That would be a very good insurance policy to have. Will the fuel pump be up to the added restriction do you think? Fairly standard blown Volvo 120AG (straight six) IIRC.

You're right about the fuel not being too bad. That said, it isn't getting any cleaner in there. I think that I'm probably more concerned about the possible buildup of water and the biodiesel thing. When the unit is running and I have to fill the day tank, there must be huge stirring and the results will be going straight into the engines filters before it gets a chance to settle. That's why I'm hoping to clean both tanks to begin with.

I like the copper lift pipe with the notch. How do you "treat" the fuel when filling the boat - a filter like Poly's funnel RACOR above?
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Old 23 December 2013, 12:29   #60
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I know you're in Ireland and all, but why so worried about water accumulating? A set of Racor's would remove small amounts of water and if you have too much for them you either have a crappy fuel supplier or a leaky filler cap.

I have not had issues with biodiesel breeding anymore bugs than dino-diesel. I have used "biobor" and the Racor/Parker biocides in the past though. Not sure if they are all that critical since our climate is alot like yours. I think if I were someplace warmer I'd look into biocides for sure.
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