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Old 22 April 2018, 23:08   #1
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DF140 engine support

Lo all,

In advance of a long tow up to Easdale I'm looking for a specific recommendation for engine support.

I used to use a fantastic yolk fabricated by PD but it went missing. I have tried to make a replacement myself but out of wood, but it's not entirely convincing. It has a habit of slipping out downwards.

So I'm looking for recommendations , hopefully from Suzi DF140 owners, about what they use for support while towing. I've done a search and one of the answers i liked most was using a keel roller, but it doesn't look like there's enough clearance round the trim ram for that. I've also had a suggestion of having a 20 - 30mm polyprop (or similar soft but tough material) bar and jamming it in the yolk between the hinge and the tilt ram but it looks to me like that would keep the engine tilted too far up (I generally have the engine at about 45degrees when towing).

Any and all suggestions gratefully received.
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Old 23 April 2018, 06:20   #2
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I have a DF140 and this is my method:

Firstly tilt the engine to a position you are happy to tow with without risk to the skeg hitting the ground. Measure from the top of the two trim rams to the respective trim stops on the underside of the leg.

From a length of 32mm UPVC waste pipe cut two sections to this measurement.
Repeat the above from a length of 40mm UPVC waste pipe
Using a tube of Puraflex or Sikaflex smother the outside of the small tube with this and insert into the larger tube. Force as much sikaflex into the annulus between the two pipes as you can. Repeat this with the other two sections of pipe you have cut. Allow to set.

Tilt the engine up further and slide the pipes over each of the trim pistons. Tilt the engine back down until the leg weight is transferred 50/50 between the tilt ram and the two UPVC pipes.

Note I tried this with just single sections of 32mm UPVC but found they were too weak. Gluing the inner tube to the outer tube makes them a lot stronger. I can show you these tubes at Easdale if this doesn't make sense.
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Old 23 April 2018, 07:33   #3
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Can you post a photo of the rams... I have a couple of US My-Wedge supports from my old Opti that may fit. The Opti was a twin ram system
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Old 23 April 2018, 08:13   #4
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Hi guys.

Diver : that's a cracker. Might give that one a go.

Jeff: I don't have a clear photo of the rams unfortunately. And the boats down in Wales so won't be able to take a pic until the weekend.

Theres two rams, I think the diameter is about 16mm. The diameter of the cylinder (ie the base the support would need to sit on) is probably about 40mm.

If you reckon they'd fit you can PM me to 'talk turkey' [emoji16]
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Old 23 April 2018, 08:17   #5
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Hi guys.

Diver : that's a cracker. Might give that one a go.

Jeff: I don't have a clear photo of the rams unfortunately. And the boats down in Wales so won't be able to take a pic until the weekend.

Theres two rams, I think the diameter is about 16mm. The diameter of the cylinder (ie the base the support would need to sit on) is probably about 40mm.

If you reckon they'd fit you can PM me to 'talk turkey' [emoji16]
Hi Dan .... this is the item - but I suspect it is not suitable for yours . You use one and it slips over either of the two outer trim rams . My newer F150 has a single centre ram and I use a split type one.

EDIT :::::: Just read the blurb on the link I sent. Yes, it fits the DF 140 :-)

Products
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Old 23 April 2018, 08:18   #6
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Likewise my boat is elsewhere but in the attached photo you cans see my 40mm UPVC pipe support and the lower ram body / ram cap is significantly larger - perhaps closer to 60mm diameter. My engine year is 2002 - not sure if they have changed the trim rams since, but doubt they would have changed much..?
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Old 23 April 2018, 08:22   #7
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I don't know the Suzi DF140 but wonder if this Yamaha engine support would work?
Yamaha MAR-MTSPT-YM-10 Outboard Motor Trailer Support

while looking for this link I came across this, I've not seen it before and have no idea if it works or is available:-
https://www.lock-n-haul.com/lnhvmax.html
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Old 23 April 2018, 08:26   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diver 1 View Post
Likewise my boat is elsewhere but in the attached photo you cans see my 40mm UPVC pipe support and the lower ram body / ram cap is significantly larger - perhaps closer to 60mm diameter. My engine year is 2002 - not sure if they have changed the trim rams since, but doubt they would have changed much..?
Prolly right: I'm kinda making it up by extrapolating from the 16mm diameter of the ram and even that's just from memory. [emoji57]
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Old 23 April 2018, 09:41   #9
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Suzuki makes proper stops for the rams contact your local dealer
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Old 23 April 2018, 10:17   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliee View Post
I don't know the Suzi DF140 but wonder if this Yamaha engine support would work?
Yamaha MAR-MTSPT-YM-10 Outboard Motor Trailer Support

while looking for this link I came across this, I've not seen it before and have no idea if it works or is available:-
https://www.lock-n-haul.com/lnhvmax.html
Haha awesome, that looks very similar to my UPVC pipe just with a Yam badge stuck on it!! Perhaps I should go into business!
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Old 23 April 2018, 11:03   #11
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Can you not cut a keel roller vertically in half and a bit of Velcro strap to keep it closed if your trim rams are not open?

I have 2 trim rams and 1 tilt, I put a pair of keel rollers on the trim rams and tilt down until I hit them.
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Old 23 April 2018, 11:31   #12
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Can you not cut a keel roller vertically in half and a bit of Velcro strap to keep it closed if your trim rams are not open?

I have 2 trim rams and 1 tilt, I put a pair of keel rollers on the trim rams and tilt down until I hit them.
Yeah I saw a previous post of yours about that, but it didn't look to me like there would be enough clearance around the ram for a keel roller with a big enough bore. Did you use one with a flared end?
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Old 23 April 2018, 11:32   #13
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Suzuki makes proper stops for the rams contact your local dealer
That's interesting. Do you have a link?
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Old 23 April 2018, 11:38   #14
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Yeah I saw a previous post of yours about that, but it didn't look to me like there would be enough clearance around the ram for a keel roller with a big enough bore. Did you use one with a flared end?

I don't know what length I have but it is this type

https://www.fieldfare.co.uk/maypole-...xoCqWkQAvD_BwE
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Old 23 April 2018, 14:11   #15
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Dan - you can have one of mine for just the postage £. If interested I will send the one I shortened slightly (20mm) so the outboard sits slightly lower/closer to the transom and if you are happy with it, drop a donation to the RNLI or MacMillan
To use, place over either of the two rams and lower the O/B until the rubber nose compresses slightly, job done :-)
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Old 23 April 2018, 15:05   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diver 1 View Post
I have a DF140 and this is my method:



Firstly tilt the engine to a position you are happy to tow with without risk to the skeg hitting the ground. Measure from the top of the two trim rams to the respective trim stops on the underside of the leg.



From a length of 32mm UPVC waste pipe cut two sections to this measurement.

Repeat the above from a length of 40mm UPVC waste pipe

Using a tube of Puraflex or Sikaflex smother the outside of the small tube with this and insert into the larger tube. Force as much sikaflex into the annulus between the two pipes as you can. Repeat this with the other two sections of pipe you have cut. Allow to set.



Tilt the engine up further and slide the pipes over each of the trim pistons. Tilt the engine back down until the leg weight is transferred 50/50 between the tilt ram and the two UPVC pipes.



Note I tried this with just single sections of 32mm UPVC but found they were too weak. Gluing the inner tube to the outer tube makes them a lot stronger. I can show you these tubes at Easdale if this doesn't make sense.


Dan, if you don't get sorted, I have the prototype for the one I made kicking around in the shed. It's a bit rough & ready but you can have it for a donation to the RNLI. I'm down for the Skerries weekend, so could bring it then.
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Old 24 April 2018, 09:30   #17
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Dan, if you don't get sorted, I have the prototype for the one I made kicking around in the shed. It's a bit rough & ready but you can have it for a donation to the RNLI. I'm down for the Skerries weekend, so could bring it then.
Thanks Dave. I'd love it. (Rough and ready is my middle name )

Still don't understand what happened to the other one; I had it when we launched and by the time we got back I couldn't find it. Very odd as it's not the sort of thing you'd lose down the back of the sofa.
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Old 28 April 2018, 05:35   #18
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Lots of conflicting views on this topic. I recommend keeping engine as high as possible so weight is forward on main hinge. Lowering for something like mywedge can mean you transfer more weight lower down. I'd recommend keep fully raised with block of wood under main hinge purely to protect against hydraulic failure. Pretty sure suzuki changed their advice to tow fully raised as more balanced. Some manuals will be wrong so check with dealer/service agent advise for your version.
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Old 28 April 2018, 07:57   #19
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The engine spends its life mostly at positive trim, won't damage a thing towing it close to that for me. If the transom or engine can't handle being towed then it certainly won't handle coming off waves, landings etc.

However, if you have a link to Suzuki saying above I would be interested to read it?
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