Dead Seagull

[lightning]

I've been given a Seagull outboard motor that has not been used since the 1980's.
It's in good condition and the engine turns freely with good compression, but it won't start. I took out the spark plug and put it against the casing and there does not appear to be a spark when you try to start it.
What's likely to be the fault, does this engine have a CDI ignition module somewhere? I cannot work out how to remove the flywheel as it turns when you try to loosen the bolt, I'm guessing it may be under there.

Are these engines noisy? I was thinking of using it on the canal, as it's half the weight of my regular engine and we only need to do between 2 and 4mph.

[Peachy00]

Could well be the points on a motor that old? Probably need replacing if its been stood that long. I remember them being quite loud too, but I could be wrong.

[lizardland]

The Saving Old Seagulls website was very useful when I was trying to get one going, there's a good page on how to get a dead engine running.

Noisy? I don't know if it's normal but mine was deafening when it finally started up, scared the crap out of the neighbours! Very oily exhaust too.

[Matt]

It absolutely is normal, plus IIRC they run on 10:1.

[lightning]

Points and a condenser....I guess I need to take off the flywheel then to check these.
How is the flywheel removed?

[Nos4r2]

Slacken the nut off and give it a sharp tap with a hammer to shock the flywheel off(yes, that's the official way to do it!).

If you try to use pullers you'll break the flywheel.

[Matt]

Worth noting he said slacken, not remove.

IIRC, on some models there is an "inspection" hatch on the flywheel - if you remove the nut, does a cover come off the flywheel? That'll give you access to see if the points are stuck/adjusted correctly/corroded before removing the flywheel. Not sure if this cover was on all models though - this was on an approx 1938 one.

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by Matt

Worth noting he said slacken, not remove.

IIRC, on some models there is an "inspection" hatch on the flywheel - if you remove the nut, does a cover come off the flywheel? That'll give you access to see if the points are stuck/adjusted correctly/corroded before removing the flywheel. Not sure if this cover was on all models though - this was on an approx 1938 one.

From memory they all have the inspection 'hatch'. There's very little to the ignition system-these engines were designed to be maintained by colonial subjects with hammers and a King Dick adjustable. The gearbox doesn't even have o-ring seals in (make sure you use the right gearbox oil or it'll all fall out!)
Spares are fairly readily available. Make sure you're carrying spare shear springs and split pins.

Yes, they are noisy.Hard to stop too-turning the fuel off about 30 seconds before you're due to stop is the only way of making sure it'll restart. DON'T stop it using the choke or it'll take ages to get going again.

It may be worth investigating a stop switch that shorts the points out. Never tried to fit one myself though.

[gotchiguy]

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Slacken the nut off and give it a sharp tap with a hammer to shock the flywheel off(yes, that's the official way to do it!).

If you try to use pullers you'll break the flywheel.

I'll copy the page out of the Service manual and PM it you when I get back. You need to have the piston in a certain position (closest to crankcase I think if I remember correctly) then heat up the flywheel and to we used a full on sledgehammer to get it off

[aquatec]

Just a couple of things extra to all the above. Before hitting the flywheel nut to remove the flywheel make sure the engine is at bottom dead centre. The piston is at the bottom of its stroke. If not it is possible to bend the conrod! Second, if a points ignition system, the condenser is situated in the housing below the points.
Good luck.
Aquatec.