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Old 18 June 2008, 19:32   #1
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Crack to Yamaha 130 BETO Lower Unit

Hi All
Well looks like Spare RIB might be even more spare this season than it was last..

Went to get her ready last weekend to try and actually use the boat this season (babies got in the way last year), and the Outboards Lower Unit has suffered a rather nasty incident..











I'm guessing that its pretty well borked and cant be welded?

In terms of sourcing a 2nd hand replacement I've tried Bill Higham Marine with no joy, and looking for any suggestions where to try next?


I have found a number of suppliers in the US but I'm struggling to match the engine model to the US model numbers.

The Engine Model is a Yamaha 130 BETO not too sure of the age I think its around 1995.

Any help in tracking down a replacement would be much appreciated.

Cheers Shaggy
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Old 18 June 2008, 21:02   #2
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'Ave you tried shovin' a pasty in the gap?
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Old 18 June 2008, 21:50   #3
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Before you can try and get that welded you need to get the castellated ring out that holds the bearing/gearbox together. It's probably corrosion round it that's caused the crack.

It may be weldable as long as the welder is careful to keep the threads inside lined up.
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Old 19 June 2008, 08:49   #4
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http://www.boatsandoutboards.com/view/F180891
Might come cheap.
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Old 19 June 2008, 13:00   #5
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Hi Nos4r2
Are you talking about 61 the Bearing Carrier?






Mollers I tried the Pastie and it didn't work, think of lagging it in Clotted Cream..

And i emailed the seller of that 130 V4.. sounds a bit suss "selling due to ill health" and "extra long leg rebuilt late 2005" especially when they have only had it for a few months..

Still might be genuine?

Shaggy
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Old 19 June 2008, 13:28   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers View Post
There's a 140 V4 Johnson with controls in the West Brit today for a grand.
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Old 19 June 2008, 13:37   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy View Post
Hi Nos4r2
Are you talking about 61 the Bearing Carrier?
No, 75 the internally castellated ring that holds the whole lot together. Water and corrosion in the threads causes it to expand and crack the housing.
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Old 19 June 2008, 19:11   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2 View Post
Water and corrosion in the threads causes it to expand and crack the housing.
Oh yes

Been there, and still got the exploded Suzuki gearcase in the garage to prove it.

Its a good idear to remove it once a year, clean and grease it to stop it happening.

Nasher
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Old 19 June 2008, 21:33   #9
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Quote:
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Its a good idea to remove it once a year, clean and grease it to stop it happening.Nasher
Wish I knew that last year

Shaggy
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Old 21 June 2008, 09:25   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers View Post
There's a 140 V4 Johnson with controls in the West Brit today for a grand.
I called about the Johnson today, the seller thinks the engine is early 90s its an ex military power head, they fitted a new lower leg about 5 years ago so alarm bells are ringing already..says its a good running etc.. going to have a look sometime over the weekend.

Although Id rather try and get the Yamaha fixed Bill Higham Marine can weld the Lower Leg although they say:

Quote:
Yes it can be welded but weld will be visible from exterior. Needs specialist welding as its aluminium.
So that's a possibility, although I'm going to have to remove all the working gear components before shipping which is going to be a nightmare for an mechanically illiterate mupet like me, plus its going to cost a packet to ship it to Manchester.

There must be a company local that could strip the gearbox and weld the Lower Unit, guess ill have to ring around..

Shaggy
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Old 21 June 2008, 09:56   #11
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Give Phil Speed a call here http://www.watercraftservices.com/ He used do g/box repairs and re-builds. He sold his engineering business, but I think the guy he sold it to still does the same sort of thing in the Mighty Borough of Penryn.
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Old 21 June 2008, 11:01   #12
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Try a Wanted ad on B&O and keep an eye on ebay.

If you're getting it repaired, any decent welder should be able to sort it out, but the threads may be vulnerable, as Nos mentioned in an earlier post. Any visible welds can be ground back and made good before re-painting.
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