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24 March 2009, 20:07
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Changing Prop - advice please
Another step in my outboard learning curve. Changing the prop.
Gota second hand Solas stainless steel prop coming tomorrow. I'm made up as I'm nearly at the end of the jobs I wanted to do to the searider and Yam.
Never done a prop change in my life so could do with taping into your knowledge please. What grease to use and things like that.
Also were can I buy a new bush? Doon't know if I'll need one but would like to fit new in any case.
Cheers 
.
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24 March 2009, 20:22
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,997
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On the outboards I've used you've had the following:
A castlenut with split/cotter pin through, this will need removing. You may have a washer behind the castle nut?
The prop will now (should) slide off.
Behind the prop will be you thrust washers etc.
Make sure these don't stick to the prop and drop off!
Get some paper and lay everything out so it goes back on correctly. See if you can get a drawing of how it should be assembled in case some half wit put it back together wrong last time!
I use Quicksilvers marine grease its a whitish colour, the RNLI use the blue marine grease but it sticks to bloody everything!
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24 March 2009, 21:19
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#3
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Swindon
Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
Make: Ballistic 7.8/SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Opti 225/Yam 85
MMSI: 239050687/235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,881
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There should be an extra shim about 10mm on the Yam 115 prop. It's actually inside the centre of the prop and you'll know it when you see it.
If you don't need the shim on the new prop, don't lose it as most props will need it.
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25 March 2009, 16:31
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Thanks for the info lads
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26 March 2009, 07:26
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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I've read the bush that comes with Solas props aren't to clever and can fail? Any ideas' were I can buy a new bush?
And will marine grade wheel bearing grease ok to use?
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26 March 2009, 07:50
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,997
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That grease should be fine.
The bush is part of the prop and can't be changed at home. You'll beed to send it away and get it rebushed.
I think we used stainless Solas props on the Atlantis and never had any trouble with bushes.
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26 March 2009, 09:40
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Thanks Phill,
from what I can gather from past threads on here they seem to fail on 200hp+ engines. Don't know how true that is or maybe one or two people have had a bad experience.
Prop didn't turn up yesterday so should come today all being well. Will have a gander at it then. Anything to look out for besides dings to the prop edge?
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26 March 2009, 10:29
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,997
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Is it used?
If so dings, bent blades, badly attempted repairs or if someone has had it repitched badly so its neither one pitch nor another. Electrolytic corrosion, ie pitting on the prop.
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26 March 2009, 10:33
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy
Is it used?
If so dings, bent blades, badly attempted repairs or if someone has had it repitched badly so its neither one pitch nor another. Electrolytic corrosion, ie pitting on the prop.
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Yeah it's used but got some high rez photos' sent to me before buying. All looks mint but ya never can tell until ya get ya mits on it.
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26 March 2009, 15:58
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#10
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,979
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The bushing is essentially a shaped hunk of rubber with the spline adaptor inside. It is pressed into the prop using a very large hydraulic press. Not a DIY job (unless, I suppose, you have a large hydraulic press in your garage...)
For Yamahas, the order (at least, mine is) is thrust washer, prop, spacer (heavy stainless splined washer), flat washer, castle nut, cotter pin.
Note: Get true stainless cotter pins from a chandler. Hardware store pins will corrode and disappear after a couple of months. It's worth the extra few cents to keep teh prop on the motor, IMO.
Pretty much any kind of waterproof grease will work; all you're trying to do is keep sea water from depositing salt in the splines between the prop and the shaft (which makes things rather difficult to remove - ask Mr. Walker.)
jky
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