Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 06 January 2007, 09:20   #1
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Ardfern
Boat name: Moon Raker
Make: Humber Destroyer
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda BF 90 D
MMSI: 235035994
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 694
Best position to lay up steering?

Just had a quick check over the boat this morning and had to deal with siezed up steering - again. The problem, as I'm sure you all know, is the push rod through the tilt pivot. Though it was freshly greased (i. e. extended, cleaned and fresh grease wiped on, then turned till the rod was completely enclosed) at lay up time, it was stuck. Spent the next half hour climbing into the boat and off again, alternately taking up the slack on the NFB wheel and trying to shoulder the engine round. A few gentle taps with a hammer on the end of the pushrod finally got it going. WD40 and 3in1 freed it up and cleaned sticky grease off and the helm's now silky smooth and light.

The boat is on a mooring for much of the season and the steering sometimes becomes stiff if not used for a while. Which is the best position to leave the steering to stop this happening? Hard a starboard (push rod fully extended), or hard a port with the rod completely enclosed, or midships? What's the best lubricant to stop it seizing?

Tony
__________________

__________________
alystra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06 January 2007, 10:49   #2
Member
 
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,688
Conventional wisdom with regard to hydraulic rams on machines (diggers etc) is for them to be retracted as far as they can be but then a conventional ram is full of oil so it makes sense to have as much as possible on the oily side of the piston oil seal.

I would have said the same for steering but it doesn't seem to work in yours. It may be easier to unseize if it's mostly on the outside!?

Have you tried lubricating it with something less "gloopy" like maybe motorcycle chain lube spray? This leaves a good lubricating layer but doesn't dry out in the same way that grease does. Just a thought - it may make no difference. I use chain lube on all sorts of things because it is runny when you spray it so it gets in everywhere, then thickens afterwards.

Maybe hydraulic steering is the answer. Mine gets a bit sticky if it hasn't been lubricated for a while but a good scoosh from a grease gun in all the appropriate places and it is fine.
__________________

__________________
A Boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by fibreglass, into which you throw money...

Sent from my Computer, using a keyboard and mouse
BogMonster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06 January 2007, 12:06   #3
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Enfield/Switzerland
Boat name: Zonneschijn II/Vixen
Make: Shakespeare/Avon
Length: 7m +
Engine: Evin' 175 DI /Yam 90
MMSI: 235055605
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,418
Don't think I've had this problem, so don't have a good answer, but logically, why not leave it in amidships? that way, if it does get seized somewhat, you at least have the chance of turning both ways to try and release.
__________________
Neil Harvey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07 January 2007, 03:48   #4
DJL
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Make: Ribcraft 6.5
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF175TG
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 929
I found it best to leave it fully extended and to wash it thoroughly with fresh water after use.
__________________
DJL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07 January 2007, 06:27   #5
RIBnet admin team
 
Nos4r2's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
Make: Ballistic 7.8/SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Opti 225/Yam 85
MMSI: 235090687/235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,645
RIBase
Have you cleaned out the inside of the tilt tube?


It might be worth trying using Castrol motorcycle chain wax rather than chainlube-same principle but it leaves a white sticky coating that stays on better than chain lube.

The other alternative is this stuff:-

Corrosion block grease on ebay

which I use liberally on underwater fittings and anything that might sieze. It seems to work rather well though it's double the price of normal grease.

I've got a grease nipple on the end of the tilt tube fitting as well which helps-everything is sealed in with an o-ring. Aladdin's cave sells them.
__________________
Need spares,consoles,consumables,hire,training or even a new boat?

Please click HERE and HERE and support our Trade Members.

Join up as a Trade member or Supporter HERE
Nos4r2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08 January 2007, 07:03   #6
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Ardfern
Boat name: Moon Raker
Make: Humber Destroyer
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda BF 90 D
MMSI: 235035994
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 694
Thanks for replies guys.

No real definitive answer then? The problem definitely seems to be the grease I've been using is becoming very stiff and sticky. I wonder if the salt air has anything to do with that. I've used the same grease in all the other grease points on the engine with no apparent problem and the 'squeeze out' is normal and not stiff.

Stephen - I've used chain lube on steering chains on a boat, but they weren't exposed to the weather. Might be worth a try.

Nos4r2 - The WD40 and 3in1 I used to free the thing seemed to clean out the tube. I kept turning lock to lock and cleaning the pushrod until it came out clean. Didn't feel brave enough to take the thing to pieces. Might try the chain wax. Anti corrosion grease sounds good.

As for stowage position - perhaps middle or fully extended. Maybe best to give it a wiggle every week :-)

Cheers Tony
__________________
alystra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08 January 2007, 08:16   #7
Member
 
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,688
Maybe it would be worth cleaning it out with carb cleaner or some other powerful solvent to make sure no gungy stuff is left inside, then putting the grease in?

FWIW I use Castrol SX2 on my outboard - because it's what we sell at work - and have had no problems. I did get some special Johnson waterproof grease with the bits and bobs I ordered for the engine, but I decided it was too much of a pain in the butt to try and fill a grease gun with it when I can use SX2 which is already in 400g tubes!
__________________
A Boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by fibreglass, into which you throw money...

Sent from my Computer, using a keyboard and mouse
BogMonster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08 January 2007, 10:29   #8
RIBnet admin team
 
Nos4r2's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
Make: Ballistic 7.8/SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Opti 225/Yam 85
MMSI: 235090687/235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,645
RIBase
Re cleaning the tube out-I took the cable out and stuck a big length of m10 threaded bar into mine as a substitute for a file (try finding a round file that long). It got the crud out quite well.
__________________
Need spares,consoles,consumables,hire,training or even a new boat?

Please click HERE and HERE and support our Trade Members.

Join up as a Trade member or Supporter HERE
Nos4r2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08 January 2007, 13:32   #9
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Marblehead, MA
Boat name: Bouncy Pumpkin
Make: Avon Searider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: Evinrude 90 E-TEC
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 390
When I de-rigged the old Merc, I found that the inner (cable) side of the lever you see was also very crudded up, with dried up grease, salt & corrosion. I don't know that there's a good way to get at that part. I'll ask the tech when I pick up my boat tomorrow. If the answer is to remove the steering cable from the tilt tube, I'm screwed, as I need to remove the engine to get the cable out. Should have bought a cable 1 foot longer... but it looks cleaner with the legnth I have... Next time!
__________________
dctucker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 January 2007, 17:36   #10
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Ardfern
Boat name: Moon Raker
Make: Humber Destroyer
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda BF 90 D
MMSI: 235035994
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by dctucker View Post
When I de-rigged the old Merc, I found that the inner (cable) side of the lever you see was also very crudded up, with dried up grease, salt & corrosion. .....!
Yeah. I'm beginning to think the answer might be regular applications of oil, (maybe ordinary motor oil?). Hardened grease is no lubricant anyway. If the oil dissolves the hard grease well and good. After my treatment the steering's finger light. I'm not keen on taking things apart if they're working (F1 engines are much more reliable since the mechanics were stopped from taking them apart quite so often). Could create more problems. We'll see how I get on this coming season.

Tony
__________________

__________________
alystra is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:19.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.