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Old 01 November 2004, 18:39   #31
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If I were going out in a Force 6 or 7 I would reverse it when moored in the harbour. It really is a 1 minute job. I am used to hoisting it on and off our SIB when SIB is in water and I am standing on the pontoon.

I do not fancy the stresses on the bracket of bouncing along with the small engine leg hanging out over the transom.....
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Old 01 November 2004, 19:05   #32
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Originally Posted by brucehawsker
If I were going out in a Force 6 or 7 I would reverse it when moored in the harbour. ......I do not fancy the stresses on the bracket of bouncing along with the small engine leg hanging out over the transom.....
Contradictory?

You could make a wee bracket to support it, unclip the bracket and allow it to pivot down and then drop the leg.
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Old 01 November 2004, 19:15   #33
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Not really contradictory. I would worry about long term bouncing stress on the small engine. On the really rough conditions - and why would I be going out I would put up with it for the obvious safety reasons.

We looked at bracket mounting her, but the available brackets provided no support and I am not an engineer
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Old 01 November 2004, 20:48   #34
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Long overdue but trialed my 2hp Aux on Sunday, in the Harbour with a receeding tide and probably a 3 knot race, it was next to useless both in terms of steerage and propulsion, if it had been windy. Will be looking at upgrading at the first oppotunity. Just goes to show you that without trialing things in real conditions you never know!!

Andy
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Old 02 November 2004, 03:45   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucehawsker
Not really contradictory. I would worry about long term bouncing stress on the small engine. On the really rough conditions - and why would I be going out I would put up with it for the obvious safety reasons.

We looked at bracket mounting her, but the available brackets provided no support and I am not an engineer
Totally agree, most brackets seem only suitable for a yacht at 4 knots not the stern of a rib at 30. If your going to the trouble of making a brakcet then perhaps one on the back of a seat might be a better alternative. If not just clamp it to the transom, at least thats strong enough.

Pete
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Old 02 November 2004, 07:44   #36
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Sorry but I don't agree. Handling an outboard motor is an awkward business at the best of times, even a small one. The clamp screws catch, the mounting bracket swivels out of alignment at the crucial moment etc.

The conditions you leave harbour in are not necessarily the conditions you find yourself in when it's an emergency.

A rib has a high bow and, therefore, windage. The motor lower unit will act as a sea anchor and it will be only a short time before the boat swings around and is floating with its stern to the weather. If the sea is anything above a force 3-4 then 2-3ft waves will be splashing onto the stern and the boat will be rocking and rolling. If they're Ribnet waves, they could be as big a 2.5mtrs .

Mounting a motor whilst getting wet, balancing yourself, getting cold and, adding to that, the pressure of the moment and the possible unfolding drama as that outcrop of rocks gets ever closer, is not a situation you should put yourself into.

The auxiliary needs to be fueled and ready for use with the least possible hassle. Unclip the bracket, switch on the fuel, pump the bulb and start it is the maximum you should be looking at doing under stressful conditions.

I do agree that the tilt lock is unsuitable for supporting the motor while travelling. I'll draw you a simple bracket which could be easily made to support the leg of a small motor. No welding required.
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Old 02 November 2004, 09:39   #37
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I think that both sides of this discussion are valid but there is a compromise which might work.

On a lot of older folkboats they have a ‘track’ made of two lengths of channel, that goes from the horizontal to the vertical over the transom. You mount the outboard on a ‘carriage’ which is retained in the track and when you need to use it you just push it overboard. The photo below shows (if you squint) the track without an outboard.

I had thought about using one on a previous boat because it keeps the transom free from clutter and with the outboard in the horizontal it can be supported by blocks and lashed in place. I also thought about a solid cover.
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Old 02 November 2004, 13:31   #38
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Transom attachment...

...is clearly the way forward - BUT - what if you can't? My engine box occupies the whole thing - no way I can direct mount an aux on there. The only option is some sort of bracket - or the rail thing, but it would need to be a clever rail to I can open the engine box......(hinges at the back).

It would also occupy the top of the engine box - which has already been earmarked by someone as a location for a big sunbathing pad.........



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Old 02 November 2004, 19:53   #39
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Bruce, Noticed you've got a padlock holding your auxilary on. Just thought I'd point out 2 things;

1) Good luck tryin to get it to open if its not a marine grade lock, especially if you need to open it to reverse the engine in a hurry, whilst out in the rough stuff. Salt water will corrode the sh*t out of it!!

2) As an anti theft device a padlock is very poor, although a lot better than nothing!! It leaves the engine tighteners (best description I could come up with!!) exposed and instead of cutting a pad lock these are far weaker and any prepared scumbag will have cut a nice slot in one to slip the padlock out in just a few minutes.

I've got a proper outboard lock for mine and it works a treat. Here's a pic of my setup, although it now has a tight piece of no-stretch rope tying the leg of the aux to the a-frame, which eliminates nearly all of the stresses on the bracket.
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Old 03 November 2004, 01:10   #40
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Steve, looking at your wake in that picture, you must be doing well over 30kts... piracy must be really bad round your area if you need to keep the outboard lock fixed!
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