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Old 30 August 2013, 14:36   #11
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Ahh lads... bite the bullet and get the angle grinder and flow coat out :-)
You know you don't want to be running with an AUX hanging of the back on a rickedy bracket like that.

You want it good and strong onto the back of the boat, no ifs buts or ands
Or maybe I just want to know there are people as mad as me out there
But I'd cut it again in a heart beat, by far the safest and strongest, and least hassle option.
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Old 30 August 2013, 14:43   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miccheck1516 View Post
couldn't you fashion a piece of wood that sits underneath the transom lip and fills the gap allowing you to clamp securely?
Yes - thought of that. Problem is, with the lip, it makes it too wide for the aux to clamp over. Mind you, you made me think, so I've just been out to the garage to check the aux. The max opening on the screws is just over 6cm, so with the 5cm lip plus the width of the transom, it's too big for the engine bracket.

Donegaldan - brilliant! That's exactly what I'm thinking of. My aux is long shaft, so it should be ok. I assume you have enough space left for the main engine to turn full lock? That looks a really neat job - all done with an angle grinder? Was that with a plasma cutting blade or something? I see plenty of potential for that job to go seriously wrong...!

Cheers,

Gerry
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Old 30 August 2013, 15:05   #13
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ohh thats a rather large lip indeed, much too big for my suggestion, i suppose cutting it away isn't the end of the world as any decent glasser could redo it should you want to in future....
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Old 30 August 2013, 15:48   #14
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Cut the lip. The adjustable outboard brackets are next to useless on a RIB and will rattle like the transmission on a Vauxhall Viva!

One thing to consider is fitting a stainless steel eye on the transom knee or deck to ratchet the outboard tight when in a tilted position. The tilt pin or push bolt mechanisms on small outboards won't last 5 minutes in a rough sea. Did the same on my Ribcraft 4.8m (no lip to cut though).
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Old 31 August 2013, 15:25   #15
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Thanks to all for your encouragement.

Cut the transom lip today and it wasn't anything like as bad as I feared.

I actually took the lip off all the way from the main engine cutout, since it wasn't worth just leaving a couple of cm of lip there.

Easy peasy with the angle grinder. Just cut carefully and left a little bit proud and then sanded that down. What I did do afterwards was coat some gelcoat filler over the area, but actually that's just made the job harder and isn't necessary (just fibreglass and gelcoat exposed after the cut). I didn't have a power sander with me and it needs a lot more sanding to look really good - so the gelcoat filler finish isn't brilliant but I can tidy that up at a later date.

I did have to cut the bulk of the tow eye off, since it was right in the way. I didn't remove it from the transom because I didn't want too start having to fill holes. Couple of pieces of ply temporarily on both sides and the aux sits very nicely with the prop at a good depth. I also used a strap to tie it to the lifting point just below in the inside of the transom.

Happy to have saved 100 by not buying an aux bracket!!

Cheers,

Gerry
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Old 03 September 2013, 19:13   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry View Post
Thanks to all for your encouragement.

Cut the transom lip today and it wasn't anything like as bad as I feared.

Gerry
Fair play...
A good new cutting disk and a couple stiff drinks to give a steady hand and bobs your auntie.
Takes a lot to go at the back of your boat with a grinder but fair play.
Your left with a better, more solid, safer and steadier mount, IMO.

Yes, I was able to achieve full lock, wee bit of tidy up work with a grinder will work a treat,
And do treat the exposed glass before too long.

On a final, you consider reversing the towing eye to the inside and using it as a safety anchor point for the aux to be secured to ?

Dan
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