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Old 08 November 2004, 11:05   #11
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Yep, wired in the way it was already wired in.. and correct according to manual except i have no idea what is cyclinder 1 and 2

anyway, if it was wired the other way round i would possibly have bits missing from my fingers by now i think its just an excess fuel burning in the exhaust when it opens creating a backpressure higher than the crankhousings pressure (since there is water to move..)
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Old 08 November 2004, 11:47   #12
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Sounds like a timing problem

What I would do is swap the HT leads over and try again.

Sounds very much like its firing with the piston at the bottom rather than top.

If you want to check this out scientifically.

1. Remove the plugs

2. Turn the engine over very slowly with a Top Dead Centre guage - (Blunt Screwdriver down the plug ole to you and me). Make a mark on the flywheel corresponding to TDC of each cylinder.

3. Turn the engine over slowly and see at which mark on the flywheel the plugs spark. If its not corresponding to the way you’ve got the ht leads connected now swap em over and try again.

Put your lucky gloves on just in case.

Cheers

Phil
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Old 08 November 2004, 12:04   #13
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its dark outside now... sounds like a good idea.. the manual says that the green/greenwhite = cylinder 1... and blue/bluewhite is cylinder 2... except i cant find ANYWHERE which is what.. and was just reading some posts on iboats forum some say top is 1, other say bottom is 1.. however it has worked this way round before somehow.. oh dear.. im getting confused now.. going to give it a try the other way round (with floodlight)

Ill be back!

*edit*:

Okay, swapped round.. same result but more often... left the plugs the same way round and took the top lead off, leaving bottom one with #2 coil, and even that makes it blow water out the exhaust 6ft into the air... ill try the TDC + spark thing... however there is nothing of the ignition to adjust.. except the carb..
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Old 08 November 2004, 13:14   #14
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The ignition is adjustable but we will leave that alone at the moment.

If you are sure that the coils, plug caps and low voltage wires are correct, then get pulling, a good half an hour will do you a power of good and soon start building mussles that you didn't know you had . You need to get that cleaner out and good fuel/oil back in and thats going to take time.

Suggest a few minutes with no plugs will make life easier.


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Old 08 November 2004, 13:36   #15
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its really really easy to pull when the plugs are removed, but with the plugs in there is sooo much compression (almost looks like its going hydraulic)
This is a stator thing with electronic switch box, has no points on it that can be adjusted.. ill move the thing back into the shed and work on it with lights..

Coils are brand new, spark looks great, they are permagaps, new leads, the wires appear to be fine (as they both spark)

i shall yank the cord till my arm falls off.. if i can manage to get myself to the shed... im feeling lazy tonight

If i were to take it to bits (the powerhead) what would i need to replace? the water jacket + cylinder head gaskit? (i've never had an outboard to bits.. have had car, lawnmower to bits, chainsaw / strimmer to bits..

i have the manual so i guess that's fine..

bleh.. lets get this thing working
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Old 08 November 2004, 14:24   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr-d
there is sooo much compression
yus. dem 20ph mowters arr myty beests. tri taikin de fkker owt ov geer
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Old 08 November 2004, 15:33   #17
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arr, i'd try tha yeah, bah it aint in gear to start of wid.

Just did about 10 min pull, decided to take the carb off and all needles are fine so are the gaskets.... so i gave it another 2 min pull and sprayed petrol down the air intake of the carb and some back up the cylinder.. which resulted in the garage floor flooding with petrol through the exhaust...

Tried the TDC thing, TDC on the flywheel lined up with the cover mark is the lower one at TDC... and the cover says its piston 1... so it must be cylinder 1.. meaning the wiring was alright...
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Old 08 November 2004, 15:41   #18
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If all else fails, try poking it with a stick......
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Old 08 November 2004, 16:14   #19
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This doesn't help at all, but:

I had a 1978 Evinrude which had the same problem - really stiff to turn over. Never did work out wat it was.

That's enough words of wisdom from me for one thread!
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Old 08 November 2004, 16:23   #20
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Ok. So you have a good spark and the wiring is to the best of your knowledge the right way round. This points the problem at the fuel side.

Assuming you now have nice fresh fuel running through and all the nasty cleaner is out, you need to ensure fuel is getting to the plugs. You will need to pull it over (without spraying fuel into carb or down plug holes) a couple of times as if you are going to start it. Remove the plugs and see if they are wet with fuel. If not then you need to check the jets are clear, the float chamber is actually filling and the throttle isn't stuck open. If they are soaking then you will need to check to make sure the mixture is ok (maybe not use choke) and that the float chamber isn't overflowing (check float height).
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