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Old 10 June 2012, 12:31   #11
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What's it still doing in hibernation !!??
The SR is out ready to go.
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Old 10 June 2012, 12:58   #12
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Tracked everything back, seems ok...
Boats been kept in a barn over winter, not bone dry but dry enough I think, how come ?
Did you do the winterisation process before storage ? I would have thought that would have been adequate for leaving outside as well as in.
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Old 10 June 2012, 13:04   #13
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Did you do the winterisation process before storage ? I would have thought that would have been adequate for leaving outside as well as in.
Winterisation only protects the motors internal guts. It does nothing for the electronics under the hood or every other electrical item on the boat.

Condensation is the nuisance.
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Old 10 June 2012, 13:20   #14
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Winterisation only protects the motors internal guts. It does nothing for the electronics under the hood or every other electrical item on the boat.

Condensation is the nuisance.
Does spraying that quicksilver grease stuff on help to eliminate that.
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Old 10 June 2012, 13:28   #15
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Does spraying that quicksilver grease stuff on help to eliminate that.
No, but a good DWF spray helps. I use this one...

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Old 10 June 2012, 13:40   #16
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No, but a good DWF spray helps. I use this one...

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Big difference in price Mollers I paid 20 odd quid for that quicksilver stuff. Can that be used over the top of it or will it just make a mess of the grease already on.
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Old 10 June 2012, 13:45   #17
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Big difference in price Mollers I paid 20 odd quid for that quicksilver stuff. Can that be used over the top of it or will it just make a mess of the grease already on.
The Quicksilver Gunk is great for preventing corrosion on the block / bolts etc.

For electrics the main thing is to use dialectric grease on connectors etc every couple of years to prevent corrosion. THe ECU itself is total sealed so that should be protected.
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Old 10 June 2012, 13:52   #18
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Big difference in price Mollers I paid 20 odd quid for that quicksilver stuff. Can that be used over the top of it or will it just make a mess of the grease already on.
Where exactly are you spraying this stuff? Corrosion guard is designed to prevent surface corrosion, not to be blasted around liberally under the cover. It may even trap moisture in.

When I'm winterising our engines, I remove the hood and side cowls on the Etec and spray hose the lot to remove any salty deposits, leave to thoroughly dry, then apply a nice coat of 2040 to the lot. The hood/cowls then stay off all winter.
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Old 10 June 2012, 13:54   #19
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It's starting and running fine 12.13 when under way, battery warming, should be 13+ when running tho ?
Mine used to register at about 13.8v on the LMF400 gauge when underway. I would remove, clean and re connect all the main power cable connections. If you still have a problem try by-passing your isolator completely.

If you still have a consistent low voltage this can be caused by the alternator or possibly the EMM (hopefully its still under WTY is the EMM is the cuplrit !)
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Old 10 June 2012, 13:56   #20
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Where exactly are you spraying this stuff? Corrosion guard is designed to prevent surface corrosion, not to be blasted around liberally under the cover. It may even trap moisture in.

When I'm winterising our engines, I remove the hood and side cowls on the Etec and spray hose the lot to remove any salty deposits, leave to thoroughly dry, then apply a nice coat of 2040 to the lot. The hood/cowls then stay off all winter.
I'm afraid I have done the first paragraph thats what the guy who sold it me told me to do.
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